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What Did The South Do To 'Arroz Con Pollo'? It's A Cheese-Covered Mystery - mexican dishes in restaurants

What Did The South Do To \'Arroz Con Pollo\'? It\'s A Cheese-Covered Mystery  -  mexican dishes in restaurants

Steamed pork, perhaps shrimp, the most beloved dish of Spanish chicken rice in Latin America.
This version is available in every country.
Cook a chicken pot meal on a seasoned rice bed.
The Latino consensus is that the reindeer are best prepared for it, which is a debate between Cuba and Puerto Rico about who is doing the best. (
I especially like the Dominican way because I can kill it with the electric mojo de ajo of the country).
However, Arroz con polllo is an afterthought in Mexican cuisine.
We do like chicken and rice, but the rice is almost always on the other side, and we prefer the chicken inside the tortillas, soup, tortillas, or the mole.
In addition to the southern United States, there are very few Mexican restaurants in the United States that have arroz con polllo.
The dish, often called non-Canadian, has evolved into a regional phenomenon there.
But this southern interpretation of arroz con pollo is not a feast of saffron --
Colored rice and delicious golden chicken are recognized by many Latinos who have grown up eating this dish.
Instead, the Southern version is made of a mixture of light "Spanish" rice and grilled chicken breast, with all the rice covered with cheese sauce, consistent between queso and melted pudding.
Some restaurants decorate it with beef, sausage, shrimp or a combination of these three foods, but the non-Canadian is the first
The moon cast out the Spanish chicken rice lineup.
Last spring, after the challenge of John T, I realized that it was not too much.
Edge, director of Southern cuisine Alliance (SFA)
-I wrote a column for its quarterly magazine gravy.
He asked me to find a Mexican dish unique to the south and tell about its history at the SFA annual Fall Workshop in Oxford. (
Theme: "El Sur, Latino. ")
After reading dozens of menus at the southern Mexican restaurant, I stumbled across the non-Canadian and wondered why these three menusAbbreviation of letters --
I have never seen it in a Mexican restaurant anywhere else before.
Come out all the time
On last August, when my wife and I went on vacation on the Bourbon Trail in Kentucky, I finally tasted the dish.
We stopped at the Cancun Mexican restaurant in Crossville, Tennessee.
Because there is a good liquor store on this road, specializing in southern whiskey.
Cancun has delicious fajitas and powerful cadillac Tower.
However, I found that its non-plus taste is bland, which is its default taste.
The taste exposed its pedigree.
I found in my research that it is most likely that it originated in the Mexican hotel in Fort Worth, Texas, but never became a part of Texas --
Canon Mexico is the key to one of the greatest unofficial American chain restaurants ever.
Since the 1980 s, a village in the state of Jalisco, Mexico, San Jose de la Paz has a population of about a thousand, and has opened hundreds of Mexican restaurants in the South to cater to British diners.
According to The Dallas Morning Post, in 1999, there were about 540 in the United States. S.
The restaurant dates back to the village and now the number is even bigger.
Family and friends from San Jose de la Paz created mini
Empire, divide the south together, and then begin to conquer the palace when almost no Mexicans live in the area.
In Kentucky
Jesus Leon opened the El Caporal chain;
In Nashville, the king is Jose Luis Ayala, who runs nine Las Palmas in the city.
Pioneer of Va Roanoke.
The area is Jesus areano.
In Atlanta, the Macias family used to run more than 20 El Toros, and the taste of the city changed earlier in the decade, forcing most people to close.
They all made a main menu, so the restaurant from Arkansas to Maryland used the same number and name for the platter (
The same spelling error even occurred).
There are satisfactory non-Canadian restaurants in these restaurants.
The food mix was soon welcomed by southerners.
Even the restaurant owner cares little about it himself.
"My dad didn't know what was right and wrong when he started," Charlie Ibarra said . ", His family cheered from the Mexican town about an hour from San Jose de La Paz and opened El Rodeo and La Rancherita restaurants in Raleigh
Durham, North Carolina.
Ibarra has Jose and his son in the heart of Raleigh, which combines Mexican and Southern culinary traditions --
You can choose from Green tarmilales or chicharrones and waffles.
"I don't think he has tasted it at all. But we sold it.
It paid the bill.
"We are now in an era where dodgy restaurant owners take food from the US region from their source and spread them out because they know consumers want the previous provincial restaurants to be just
The most famous example is Chipotle, which uses the Mexican burrito style in the San Francisco Mission Area --
Custom Order, humongous created in component-
Set the lines in front of the customer and wrap them with foil --
Billions built. dollar company.
Even the most unlikely dishes prosper.
Young Vietnamese
American entrepreneurs fell in love with the Halal Food car in Manhattan and are now licensed around the world.
I 've seen a candy shop in Oregon selling delicious Kakes from Philadelphia, a hipster burger shop in California serving soda Lala in North Carolina, and even a restaurant in Orange County, California.
Specializing in the popular Czech pastry kolaches in Texas.
Especially the South, has become my ideal place.
Sales of bourbon whisky in Vietnam continue to soar
The Cajun crayfish house from Houston is spreading, while the hot chicken in Nashville
Fried chicken legs and breasts rubbed with cayenne sauce
Even KFC is very popular.
However, it is unlikely that the non-overtime will become a new trend in fashion.
There is no romance and nostalgia here, and there is no real cooking value.
For the rest of the country, and even for the South itself, it is not enough for the South or Mexico.
No Southern chef support;
Food writers choose to report Mexican cuisine favored by immigrants and diners, rather than working --
It seems to be the white class with the biggest fan of non-Canadian.
In my study of SFA, the restaurant owner told me that they were just people who had ordered the non-plus too.
Typical is the experience of Marcos Medina, a Mexican immigrant who owned the Del villa in Greensboro, New York, in March. C.
He told me: "Only the Americans ordered it . "
"They swallowed it.
"In my experience, Latinos living in the south, if they know, tend to be skeptical about the non-plus.
When I started my research, none of my friends at El Sur had heard of the dish because they visited takreas and other Mexican restaurants facing immigrants.
When I showed my PowerPoint on this topic at SFA's workshop, half
Mexican food writers from Atlanta announced in front of a quiet crowd that I tied them to such basic dishes and insulted the Latino community in the South.
When I interviewed Ibarra, he showed me an article from a brother who was confused that I wanted to talk to his family about the non-plus and so on. (
The food in La Rancherita is delicious because it uses cheese from the Chihuahua, which is more milk and does not melt too much. )
"He doesn't sound like a cool journalist," the article reads . ".
"Non-Canadian is a totem dish in the South, not a trumpet," Edge said . " His recent book, Potlikker Papers: The History of food in the Modern South, records how the region has become a hotbed of American cooking.
"This is an honest reflection of who we are now, but it does not reflect the stereotypes of governing.
"When I asked him why he thought the association of people of color would flow across the country, Edge said," the hint of a story sparked interest and appetite.
"The Epic of arroz con polllo in the South is comparable to any epic.
But because this is an adaptation of the story, the story of assimilation, not the real story (
A word in the food industry)
The American Association of Colored People is destined to live a strange life: a person in the food world who no one wants to claim to be a profitable person.
Gustavo areano is the author of Taco USA: How Mexican Food conquers America, and a longtime guest in NPR's Weekend "Barbershop" section.

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