The next big thing in American regional cooking: Humble Appalachia - name for italian restaurant serving local dishes crossword

"Drugs are easier to buy than greasy beans," says Travis Milton . " He took a deep cigarette.
This is a headache for the chef.
First of all, whether you do it with old beans, his favorite is white beans.
Schools, stew them within an inch of their lives, or use more modern techniques such as steaming to show the sweet fat inside.
But greedy people (
Named after their smooth appearance, not their taste)
It's not just a personal issue for Milton.
Later this year, he will open an Appalachian restaurant in Bristol, Tennessee, Shovel and Pick.
To turn the dishes he grew up into premium versions
Beef leg pork with honey beets and vegetables mixed in butterbean miso —
Milton needs some traditional ingredients, such as greasy beans.
So this spring, Milton will plant 10 acres of soybeans and other heir beans, peas, green vegetables (
A kind of Tian Shui Qin)
Candy baked pumpkin, chicken feet (
Cousin Appalachian of quinoa)
BlackBerry, cranberries, etc.
He will not use things in his restaurant, he will marinate and preserve them, or share them with other chefs who are committed to promoting the American food of Appalachian.
Part of Milton's grand plan is to use food to ignite the region's economic development, ending once and for all the general stereotypes of the Appalachian people as a group of toothless countryman.
This is not a small feat, especially when the response to the word "Appalachian" is "well?
Or exaggerated eyes.
Roll on the idea of another chef cadre trying to take advantage of regional culinary style.
In fact, there are at least as many requirements for "food" as in California (
No one dares to challenge).
Food in Appalachian Middle School
A region from southern Ohio, West Virginia to Tennessee.
The cucina povera, which makes up the United States itself, is as rich as Tuscan food in the 1980 s and has not been explored in the field of American cooking.
William Dixon is a West Virginia native and owner of the Asheville market restaurant. C.
Known as the pillar of Southern cooking.
"It's an agile, intelligent way of cooking, and out of necessity, it accepted every part of the preservation, Canning, fermentation and use of animals long before fashion.
There are leather burritos, string the beans together to dry, and then revive with water and smoked ham meat.
There is a mountain version of vinegar pie, Southern lemon chess pie, vinegar instead of expensive or hard acid --to-find citrus.
"These dishes are really beautiful," Milton said . ".
"They produce amazing flavors, a taste of a culture of survival.
A humble pole bean tastes like a pot.
Because you have to eat, you work with what you have.
The idea is becoming popular.
Last fall, academics, chefs and activists hosted the Appalachian American food summit in Abingdon, Virginia.
Study how the food heritage in the region promotes the local economy.
In February, the James Beard Foundation was held for the first time.
Chef salon in Appalachian. (
Full disclosure: The reporter served as the host of this event. )
A few weeks later, the Asheville supper club "blind pig" hosted Milton and five other chefs for a dinner called "Appalachian storyteller.
Milton served smoked venison with a sauce made of malt sass wood and black birch syrup and smoked kale.
Cook Edward Lee of Louis, who also owns sucash ash in the National Port, made pork fried meat chops, a recognition of the presence of Germany in the region, who painted salt bread
Rely on the bread of the people of the natural leaveners in the air.
The event received 140 people and sold out in one day.
Ask most people what they think is the food of Appalachian?
If they have any ideas-
Maybe corn bread and Pito beans.
In coal mines, food that is cheap enough to fill your stomach a day ago is bland enough to satisfy the taste of Scotch whisky --
Irish people who settled in the area.
Ronni Lundy, author of the upcoming pastor: a trip to Appalachian, recipe, said (
Clarkson Potter, August 2016)
This exposes a serious misconception about the region and its food, and the situation in the region is much more complicated.
The Cherokee originally lived in the area.
The freed slaves gathered there because it was one of the few places where they were allowed to live.
The British arrived with the Germans and the Scots.
Irish in the 1800 s, Hungarian and Italian after the Civil War came to work at the mine.
Some people live here for a generation or two and then continue to live, while others settle down permanently.
"Appalachian is more of a melting pot," Lundy said . ".
"This is visible in the way we eat. ”Take corn.
It was originally planted by the Cherokee in Appalachian;
The tribe teaches new settlers how to soak grain in water mixed with ash and grind it into dough.
Leather burritos, also known as shakpeas, are also considered by many to be a product of Native American drying techniques, although Lundy says this approach may have been brought in by Germans and their passion for fermentation.
Sauerkraut is common in many Appalachian families, but fermentation is also used in native beans and is made into sour cornloved dish.
"You 've adopted an old technique and added a new ingredient and you 've got a completely original food," Lundy said . ".
However, the food of Appalachian, like its ingredients, comes from the culture of the mountains.
Perhaps there are more than any region in the United States, and families carefully preserve the seeds and preserve the rapidly disappearing transmission heir varieties in areas where commercial seeds are widely supplied.
In 2011, researchers from the Slow Food raft Alliance recorded 1,412 clearly-named heir foods in the region, including more than 350 apple varieties, 464 pea varieties and 31 corn varieties.
Locals subsidize what they can grow with a bounty in the woods around them.
There are many places to feed: the south and central parts of Appalachian are recognized as the most diverse areas in North America.
They are famous for their ramps and wild mushrooms.
It is not very famous for plants such as wild ginger, which taste like fragrant orchid and black pepper; ginseng; sumac;
There are spices, all kinds of spices.
The short growing season in the mountains focuses on a wide variety of preservation: Bacon, pickled vegetables, fruit into jam and jelly.
Many families are poor and few are wasted.
Danny Trentham, chef of the American DivisionS.
The food cooked at the Appalachian storyteller dinner said his grandmother would make blackberry dumplings with the rest of the cookie dough and jam that were not fully ready yet. (
He made dinner exactly the way she did, with one exception: he used high-
Fat butter in Europe. )
"This is an original identity," Trantham said . ".
"You can't buy it on Amazon.
You must be one of them.
Milton grew up in castellwood. Castellwood is located in southwest Virginia with a population of 2,000.
His grandparents own the country restaurant, which Milton says is a bit greasy and serves hamburgers in red.
Eye juice, country ham and shakpeas.
Milton spent most of his childhood in the kitchen;
When he is 3 years old, his mother will put him in a high chair and let him peel potatoes with a dull butter knife while waiting for the table.
In the summer, he would sit under a big oak tree in his grandparents' yard and make beans into cans or dried beans.
At the family dinner, Milton's current dishes are: deer meat, sour corn, "short skirt" lettuce (
Withered bacon grease)
Leather pants and green vegetables.
There is always a lot of kimchi here, many of which embody a mix of smart and frugal in Appalachian cooking. (
For example, Milton's grandmother always adds some Red Hots candy to her Marinated Peaches in place of expensive cinnamon sticks. )
There are dumplings, pies, and pancakes for dessert, and a five-layer cake with apple butter.
When Milton was a teenager, his family moved to Richmond.
He DJ in the car and radio station (on-
Air name: White chemical disease Love Machine)
He taught high school English before starting cooking as a profession.
At the age of 24, he found his first job --
Chef Bottega, an Italian restaurant in Richmond.
He did not attend a cooking school, so Milton used his holiday as an apprentice at top American restaurants.
It was in the days of WD. 50, an avant-
Milton had an epiphany about cooking the food of Appalachian.
When he mumbled mum that all he really wanted was a greasy Bean, he was making PB & J "pills ".
"Why do you want a bean covered with oil stains?
Another Cook fought back.
This is a turning point.
"I realized that I wanted to do everything I tried to stay away from myself :[foods of the]
Countryman. "He said.
A few years later, Milton found a job at Comfort, a Richmond restaurant that showed southern cooking, and the boss gave him the freedom to try.
He made the legs and chicken wings of the Kentucky frog with a barbecue sauce.
He also began to make vinegar with a variety of things: radish greens, honeydew melons, and even soda Lala in North Carolina, which he in turn used to make cheeky vinegar pies
Chef John Fleur said: "Travis understands that you can't extract food from culture
Having rhubarb in Asheville and widely regarded as a chef at Blackberry Farm in eastern Tennessee has sparked interest in mountain cuisine.
Fleur compares Milton to Sean Brok, who has become a strong evangelist of Southern ingredients.
"Travis is taking the next step.
He provided a cultural background to the food story.
Milton looks like a hipster with a truck driver's hat, plastic --
Framed glasses and a thick beard.
He rarely had his Virginia as a couple hat or a denim jacket covered with patches, including one of Kellogg's cornflakes logos and one of the Paul Stanley of the band Kiss.
Like many chefs now, he has a lot of tattoos on his arm.
Of course, there is a greasy bean.
A pile of watermelon radish;
A stalk of rhubarb. Milton used to eat raw meat when he was a child;
His grandfather's favorite German Johnson tomato.
Behind the colorful vegetables is a black cloud.
"It shows all the beautiful things from the coal country," Milton said . ".
"It's not that I put my heart on my sleeve.
This is my plan for Appalachian.
"In the twilight of coal, can food help promote economic development?
Signs of hope.
The Milton restaurant he hopes to open later this year is one of them.
Also try to bring back authentic Appalachian products: the heir apple orchard that was razed to the ground for the mining of cider; “Virginia-style” whiskey; and salt. Yes, salt.
Before wood and coal, salt was the main industry in Appalachian Middle School.
Salt water is extracted from deep underground, a relic of the Iapetus ocean that covered the area 0. 47 billion years ago.
In 1846, there were more than 50 salt farms in West Virginia, the largest.
In the production area of the country.
A producer is J. Q. Dickinson.
It was founded in 1817 and was the last to close in 1945.
Three years ago, the seventh
The family's generation, Nancy Brunn, and her brother, Lewis Payne, reopened the salt fields along the Milwaukee River southeast of Charleston.
They extract salt water from the same location but are committed to being more eco-friendly
Friendly, if less efficient, the way to dry it.
Instead of heating the salt water with wood or coal fire, they put the salt water in the tray of the glass solarium to allow the salt water to evaporate naturally.
The result is a thick and clean crystal that makes food popular.
When Brock first tasted it, he called Bruns and asked if he could buy it in a truck.
However, production is still limited.
In the first year, J. Q.
Dickinson has only 400 pounds salt.
This year, the company aims to earn 14,000 pounds.
However, this is still a small part of the £ 8,000 pounds per day that was once produced.
The revival of local salt was the focus of a film shown last month at the Appalachian storyteller dinner.
The crowd mixed the Appalachian Mountains with the thrill of food. seekers —
There are two essential ingredients in Milton's recipe to restore the area and food.
The 78-year-old Treva Johnson grew up eating leather pants and cream greens that she and her grandmother were feeding.
Dinner is the chance to taste them again. (
The greys vegetables, which became the original abrasive of the original wine, did not fully match her memory.
"It's wrong, but it's also exciting," she said . ". )
Lisa Gambo, 35, never heard of leather pants before dinner.
"Now," she said, "I eat it every day. ”