The Food Revolution of Alice Waters' Chez Panisse - long and tedious to wash dishes in a restaurant

With her famous Berkeley
Alice Waters restaurant has introduced a new dish based on local seasonal ingredients.
Waters and her biographer discuss what has made Chez Panisse such an alternative and memorable place to eat for more than three decades.
Looking back, Waters would say it all started with her bowl of coffee shops.
As a student staying in Paris during his 1960 s, Waters has never had such a good drink.
Soon, her trip to the French countryside made her feel the power and fun of local food: The Green mouth of the ship, freshly squeezed virgin olive oil.
After returning to Berkeley, Waters changed dramatically.
She came up with a plan to change running.
An elegant bistro in the old house.
The opening night is on August 1971.
"I don't know what will happen when we open it," Waters said . ".
"I haven't worked in a restaurant. . .
When people came in from the front door, I was still banging the carpet on the stairs. "The opening-
The menu at night is rare in those days-farm-
Replace frozen duck meat with fresh duck meat.
"So, starting from the first night, there is a difference in raw materials as Chez Panisse," said new biographer Thomas mcnamé, Alice Waters, and Chez Panisse: The Romance of the food revolution, unrealistic, often quirky, and ultimately brilliant. .
On the first night, Waters positioned herself where she had always wanted to go --
In the front, say hello to the diners and make a piece.
Back in the kitchen, there will be a series of creative and colorful chefs.
Jeremiah is one of the most outstanding talents.
In Tower's qualifications: he is an Australian native who teaches him to roast Barracuda and wild parrots on the beach.
"He's a very casual person and he likes to do things in a very complicated way," McNamee said of Tower . ".
"Both he and Alice are passionate about the best ingredients.
Jeremiah tends to be Baroque in preparation, and Alice tends to pursue a simpler style.
This creates conflict, but the conflict in turn becomes a synthesis.
"This baroque emotion leads to a menu like El Salvador Dali with a cannibal parfait on the menu.
Each dish on the menu contains a wine, sauterne.
Drinks are also available in the kitchen.
In the first year alone, $30,000 worth of wine was missing.
While many chefs come and go, one of Chez Panisse's regulars is Growers.
One of the innovations of water is to cultivate interpersonal relationships with organic farmers.
Waters uses a network of growers, some of which specialize in one thing --
For example, peaches that grow from a tree may be picked within a week of July. Thirty-
Five years later, Alice Waters hopes to pass on this intimate way of food to a new generation.
Through her Chez Panisse Foundation, she created a gardento-
The table program, called Edible Campus, started at a high school in Berkeley where students grew their own food.
In a world of fast food and childhood obesity, the program aims to attract children to eat correctly.
"We have to create a truly irresistible environment," Waters said . ".
Fortunately, nature is irresistible.
"The farmer's market is a fundamental element of the food and philosophy of Chez Panisse.
Alice waters's description of typical salads on the market shows how the ingredients are-
Led her creative cooking.
I started by looking for really good textures and colors.
In spring, I will definitely put radishes in Sharari, or shave, or split my head, and I will also eat those spring greens.
I will get them from different vendors, no matter who owns the best small wild rockets or whatever.
I like the small onions in spring. they are very small, like a scallion.
I put all this in.
Radish can also be like this when it is very small.
Fennel, of course.
I like fennel from salad.
You can chop the fennel leaves.
They were beautiful when they first came.
I like mustard flowers as decoration.
I might get farm eggs and put in some hard eggs
Half boiled eggs. Hard-
They are great when boiled eggs are made right.
I boil the water and put the eggs in.
Then I cooked them.
Well, it depends on the size of the egg.
About eight minutes.
The way I told them it was done was that I took out an egg from the pan and I just had to break the shell a little and press it and you will know.
If it's too soft, you put it back.
You know it's done and you rinse it with cold water.
I have had raw asparagus in Sharari, but for vegetables I usually make a plate that is more like a spring aioli plate.
I cook the asparagus, artichokes, potatoes, carrots, fennel first and then use it to make some green garlic.
I crushed the green garlic.
The green and white parts-
Then mix it with homemade mayonnaise.
Small pile of each vegetable, separate, not seasoneddead plain.
This is a delicious lunch.
This is my favorite lunch for my friends.
Some of the changes in vegetables can be sauce, apple sauce, or toast.
You have to find any salad vegetables you just picked.
Those who are alive to them.
There are no small discolored ends.
I don't mind people who have a little bit of dirt on them because they just came out of the ground.
They don't even have time to wash.
You would be surprised if you could find such a green plant.
If I live in the Upper West Side of Manhattan, I will make friends with a gardener right away, who is part of one of the community gardens.
Thomas mcnamé extracts from Alice Waters and Chez Panisse.
Reprinted by Penguin Publishing House, a member of Penguin Group (USA), Inc. Copyright (c)
Thomas mckner, 2007.
Open light NIGHT1971, 2006Late-
The summer sun flows into the restaurant, bringing gold to each West --
French gold plated Mirror on ivory plaster walls, mahogany decoration, oak floors and fleas-
Market oak chair, mismatched flea
Red tableware market in Chinaand-white-
Square tablecloth, a large white vase
Tidy up all the tables.
On the stairs leading to the second floor, a woman knelt on the ground and was DingTalk an Oriental runner. "Alice?
Called a waiter from below.
"It's 6 now.
Alice Waters stood up and turned down the stairs.
She is 27 years old this year, but looks much younger and the skin and the simplicity of the child.
She wore a bronze lace dress, which was worn the day before. It was very delicate, delicate and beautiful.
She is very small, only 5 feet two years old, wideopen, wide-
Gray eyes, soft mouth of meditation.
This little restaurant in the old house on Sandack Avenue, Berkeley, California is Alice's dream of life, and tonight, August 28, 1971, is its opening night.
In honor of the most generous and living honor, she named the restaurant --
Marcel paganor's love characters in the film trilogy "Marius", "Fanny" and "Cesar.
Alice wants Chez Panisse to be an easy-going, unaffected party place like the Cesar Bar in Old Port Marseille where friends can laugh, quarrel, flirt and drink wine for hours in a row
At Chez Panisse, they can also eat something simple and delicious.
She pushed her shoulder back, raised her chin, and was ready to smile.
She opened the door and poured many people.
She recalled today: "We invited friends the first night, but there was a line outside the door and downstairs.
We just don't know what to do.
"Alice brought them to the table with a confident smile and warm hands, as if she had run a restaurant all her life.
"In fact," she said, "my whole professional experience was equivalent to making a summer crab salad sandwich in the tea room of block department store, as well as making a little waiter here and there.
"The menu is written in chalk on the blackboard: $3.
95 that's it.
No choice but wine
Mondavi Fumei Blanco, Mondavi gamai, and a delicate Saudi Arabia on the edge of glass, sudurio Castle. The dining-
Room staff do not have uniforms so it is difficult to distinguish from customers, but there are a lot of uniforms in the kitchen and dining room.
Opening night of upscale restaurant, 50 seats 50-five employees.
The pie arrived soon.
It is made in advance and only needs to be sliced and plated at the last minute.
Very simple, this is a prototype of French bistro cooking: chopped pork and pork fat seasoned with cognac, wrapped in tightly packed eggs
Glazed pastry crust.
Accompanied by cornichons and crocks, known as Dijon mustard.
The customer dug in and walked over with a smile.
Then the wait begins.
In Alice's memory, behind the kitchen door was "a mess.
And Victoria croyer, 20.
Seven, has been working for the Ducks in the sauce for three days, without shortening any step in the classic sequence established by the 19 th imperial Congress
Century master Auguste escoville
She made a classic Dragon in the first place.
Cooked food for vegetables, beef and veal.
She then thickens her stock with a ball of brown flour in the clarified butter, and brings it to a boil by repeatedly sliding the scum floating on the top.
Six hours later, she added tomatoes and mileboi (
Chopped carrots, onions, celery and raw ham with hundred-leaf and bay leaves)
, Skim some more, then reduce some, and then filter again to produce the sauce espagnole, which is the basis for making more exquisite sauces in French premium dishes.
She added more of her favorite brun and cut the mix by half;
Then she drank a little more sherry and then messed up the results.
It's still just a base of Griles.
Victoria then created a second inventory from duck bones, decorations and white wine, she cooked for four hours, skim, filter, skim, restore, and finally combined with Demiglace.
She cooked the olives for another two hours.
The sauce is gorgeous if it's a bit salty, but the duck's bravery is far behind now.
A few weeks before the opening of Chez Panisse, before Alice hired her as a chef, Victoria croyer has been a graduate student in philosophy at the University of California, Berkeley, and someone who loves to cook at home
She never had a chili sauce or Demi.
As a matter of fact, before tonight, the grilles or the canard Oaks olives.
She has never worked in the kitchen of the restaurant.
"Victoria has a certain amount of confidence," recalled Alice. "This is something I lack at all.
"These ducks are fresh, not frozen, from Chinatown in San Francisco.
Most of the produce comes from the Japanese agricultural concession or the Berkeley Union Company on Grove Street Usave
The op grocery store opposite the restaurant.
The salad after the main course was not listed on the menu, but the best they could get was lettuce and Alice ended up throwing away threequarters of it.
Alice and Victoria have been worried about which olives to use in the sauce for a few days, and it turns out that Alice said, "We are not satisfied with the final purchase of olives.
Sicilian olives.
It's too salty.
"Alice and Victoria don't even know anything like the restaurant owner.
It doesn't matter because the big suppliers don't have fresh ducks or beautiful salad vegetables or the right French olives.
In the kitchen, the casserole duck was stewed on each stove and then squeezed into the oven, though, the meat refused to soften, until the seven months of Alice's junior year in Paris, she remembered the melting tenderness.
As the patience of the restaurant weakens, the restaurant becomes quieter.
Alice went in and out of the kitchen every few minutes, cheering for her crew first, then begging, and finally grumpy.
Fortunately, she did not know that the soot in Victoria's cigarettes fell into the sauce.
Between the pie and the first duck that appeared in the restaurant, an entire hour passed.
"I'm crazy," Alice recalled . "
"All these people are waiting at the table.
More people are waiting to sit at the door.
People waiting on the sidewalk.
We just can't get their food out to them.
I am the one who has to talk to them.
"In the end, the waiter came out of the kitchen every once in a while and rushed to a table with a few greasy, sparkling, delicious roast duck and olive oil on it.
While the kitchen was further in trouble, on some of the other unfortunate tables, the waiting time was extended to two hours.
It's a good thing that so many diners are friends or family members.
Alice said: "We have fifteen or more people in our kitchen, much more than we need.
There is more space than here.
Not professionally trained.
Make it up as they move on.
Same in front of the house.
Actually a waiter for a painter, poet, or dancer.
I hired them because I liked them.
I don't want a professional.
We just want to figure it out.
This is what we are all doing, making up for this as we move forward.
Totally crazy. "The plum tart-
Simple, almost plain plums spread over light cream frozen at the peak of maturity, baked with butter skin --
It is the work of Alice's old friend Lindsay Schell, who works calmly and in isolation in a cottage in the backyard, thus preventing the nervous breakdown of Chez Panisse from being infected that night.
The egg tarts are perfect: warm, delicate and fragrant, and can be served on time.
In the evening, when the last late diner, tricktrick, came out, Alice stood at the door with joy, and her heart was still dancing.
I finally had 100 meals.
How many of them are actually paid, no one will remember very clearly.
The cost of serving them is definitely much more than what they bring.
At least fifty people are still waiting on the street.
"I'm sorry," Alice said to them . "
"We just don't have any more food.
Come back tomorrow!
"After Midnight, Alice and the staff and the friends who stayed opened some wine in the middle of the night --
The cafe upstairs is over, sitting quietly together, exhausted and elated.
"We are very happy.
"We are too young," she recalls . "
"We love what we are doing.
We are in the right place at the right time.
It's pure luck, really. "Thirty-
Five years later, Alice Waters is arguably the most famous restaurant owner in the United States, and Chez Panisse is the best --
Famous Restaurant.
In 2001, food magazine saw it as the best restaurant in the country;
In the magazine's next assessment, Chez Panisse ranked second in the October 2006 issue (
Behind a Chicago newcomer named Alinea).
How Slapdash is madeit-up-as-we-go-
In the little hangouts and the tortured mistress, such an idol is a vision of adventure, misfortune, unexpected consequences, Steel will, pure opportunity, and total unreality
The characters throughout its history range from hedonists to magiavili-style professionals, from madness to calm-down rationalists;
Almost all people are driven by passion. sometimes passion is so intense that it is blind.
The road from Chez Panisse to here is neither straight nor flat.
It's pitted, booby-trapped, cliff-hanging, devil-
Bold, sometimes not a road at all.
In some ways, today's Chez Panisse is no further than Alice's first modest desire for it.
It still occupies the old house in Berkeley.
It is still an easy-going, unaffected party place where friends laugh, argue, flirt and drink for hours in a row
Eat something simple and delicious.
Some stone hippies who also groped for duck plates on the opening night are now polished professionals, still there --
While their practiced manners cover up Alice's inner life that attracted them many years ago for the same antics, brains.
There is no Chez Panisse outpost in Las Vegas or anywhere else;
Frozen pizza in high-end restaurants;
Only in the past few years has Chez Panisse become a truly profitable business.
Alice is a hero and a celebrity who is eager to get a endorsement and a signature but she can still look like a child and a little out of dateof-
The focus dreamer of opening a restaurant without knowing anything about the restaurant.
Chez Panisse is a pilgrimage place for foodies and chefs from all over the world, but it has no cooking fireworks, no dazzling architectural combinations, and no wild combinations of exotic ingredients
It's still just a place to have fun and eat really good food.
But for many, including many who will never eat there, Chez Panisse is a much bigger business than a restaurant.
This is a standard.
The flagstaff of the moral value system.
It is a leader in culinary style, social movement, and a comprehensive philosophy of doing good and living.
This is also a piece of art.
A lot of work, a masterpiece.
There are eight books, hundreds of lectures, dozens of honors and awards, constant media attention, and a restaurant that is not very big, alice Waters has changed the way many Americans eat and think about food.
She insists on the freshest ingredients, used only during peak season, almost always organically grown locally, and is now the ruling principle of the best American restaurants and many family chefs.
Her concept of a moral community based on good food and kindness helps to foster a new generation of artisans and farmers.
Like her, they are committed to managing land and waters.
They are only satisfied with the highest quality they produce.
They see themselves as increasingly powerful forces in American culture and politics.
Under the leadership of Alice's reluctant, somewhat clumsy undertaking, the ideals and methods of this new community spread across the country.
You can walk in one now.
At farmers markets in Montana, Mississippi, Ohio or New Mexico, and even supermarkets, find fresh, delicious organic food, grown by people who share Alice Waters values and visions.
When Alice was 60 years old, she was far away in 2004.
Achieve ambition.
From elementary school to college, she has seen students being taught to plant and cook their own food.
On a larger scale, she envisioned the soul.
A large number of small organic farms, sustainable fisheries, and human and ecological animal husbandry have replaced the death machines of enterprise agriculture.
She dreams of a broken American family reunion at the table and getting back to health.
She saw that people around the world could be attracted to a new way of thinking about the Earth and a better way of life.
Today's Alice is very different from the girl in her twenties. seven-year-old of 1971;
Chez Panisse has also changed a lot in many ways. But together-
Their identity has become inseparable.
Over time, they are still making up, and each dinner is still a passionate experiment that often changes at the moment of the meal.
Thomas mcnamé extracts from Alice Waters and Chez Panisse.
Reprinted by Penguin Publishing House, a member of Penguin Group (USA), Inc. Copyright (c)
Thomas mckner, 2007.