Henry Zhong survived the uncertainty of his home exile and was under pressure to make his little Hunan the best Chinese restaurant in the United States by The New Yorker.
His humility, dignity and calmness are intact and he is about to take a big step.
This month, he opened his second Hunan restaurant, which is 10 times the size of the restaurant and has 314 seats.
He recently survived a private dinner with the city's culinary elite and a surprise guest --
Artist Danny Kay, as the best non-challenge
A Chinese chef in the United States.
Zhong's victory was even more striking because before he decided to become a restaurant owner, he was in his 50 s and started a career as an office worker.
He opened the store at 853 Kearny Street.
There are 6 tables and 11 counter seats.
Lack of grace, lack of space.
Just like you do countless other things in a crowded Chinatown, you may walk past it inadvertently.
What is different is the cooking Standard performed by Zhong, the novelty of the food prepared in an authentic Hunan way, and the liner waiting for the seat.
Hunan province is the birthplace of Chairman Mao, with a variety of dishes, the most famous is not pepper.
They are not aromatic peppers from Sichuan and Chile (
"It's too sweet," said Henry Zhong . ".
It's green when it's fresh, it's red when it's dry, they're small and "cold", it's a kind of Chinese understatement, meaning they can be from the top of your head
"Hunan people can not eat meat, but they can't live without chili peppers," said Henry Bell . ".
"Americans got the message somehow.
For several years, they went in droves to eat spicy Sichuan food. Hunan -
More diverse and complex but less well known
It's also getting popular.
In 1974, Zhong was the first person to raise the Hunan flag in this Chinatown, mainly Cantonese.
The respected culinary teacher, Loni Kuhn, lined up on the first day and has been back regularly since then.
"Every week or so, I need a solution from Hunan," she said . ".
"It's reached the point where I really don't like any other Chinese food.
Other styles look dull.
"The San Francisco native of Cantonese does not agree with her.
The regional cooking debate in China is no less enthusiastic than the country's chili, barbecue enthusiasts and de-destructors.
Thus, there was a trace of regret in the voice of Henry Zhong, who said, "Cantonese do not like spicy food.
Most Chinese come here to eat noodles.
According to Zhong, the owner of a luxury Guangdong Restaurant on Grant Avenue sneered at Hunan's favorable comments. he said, "the small place is only suitable for the working people.
Danny Kay, a scholar with knowledge of Chinese cooking, tries to look at the debate from a perspective.
"There is a difference between the spice that stimulates the taste buds and paralyzes the taste buds," he said . ".
"A truly exquisite Chinese meal will be arranged as carefully as a symphony, offering a harmony of texture, color and seasoning.
"All this sophistry makes Henry Zhong not bothered at all.
He politely places his head and then continues to do what he has been doing.
For a Frenchman, the debate boils down to choosing between the fine cuisine of the Paris palace of gastronomy and the rich provincial cuisine of the surrounding countryside of Lyon.
Like the Lyon region of France, Hunan has the best natural food mix in China.
As Tony Heath wrote in the introduction to "Henry Zhong's Hunan style Chinese recipe (
Harmony Books, $10).
"Hunan" is the only province in China to eat three meals a day, with the most rice, vegetables, pork or chicken and fish. "(
The book contains about 75 surprisingly simple, well-explained recipes, a concise introduction that will be a valuable entry to all Chinese cooking, as well as fascinating and interesting stories from Hunan.
Like a restaurant, it's the winner. )
"Our food is very unusual," said Zhong . "
"It's not just spicy and spicy.
"He and others can quote magnificent smoked poultry and pork recipes, no counterpoint sparks of pepper strikes, delicious dishes are too sweet, and a simple onion cake --
Basically, shallots.
Tortillas flavored
This is as addictive as potato chips.
"There are three explanations about why they (the Hunanese)
"I like spicy food very much," Zhong wrote in his book . ".
"Some people say that because Hunan is far from salt, it is replaced by pepper and spices --
Origin. . .
Secondly, because of the hot and humid climate, southern Hunan people eat peppers and spices to sweat.
Third, because Hunan has a lot of food, Hunan people will try to eat more than other places by adding peppers and spices to stimulate their dull appetite.
"There is more or less authenticity in each interpretation, especially in the evidence that supports the third belief. . .
The menu he prepared for the private party (
The restaurant usually closes on Sunday)
Although Zhong admitted that he did not take out all the peppers, he emphasized the quantity and the peppers.
He listed on the blackboard: Hunan-
Style, hot and sour soup, onion cake, five-Spiced Beef (cold)
Fried chicken wings chicken salad sour beef rock cod with hot black beans spicy spiced shrimp chicken with garlic sauce tofu with meat sauce Henry's Hunan smoked tea bag is necessary to provide a framed phrase for food and evening "no at all excuse ".
Guests drink beer or coke from teacup.
Napkins are paper.
Danny Kay and several others sat on the stool at the counter.
Others sit at the table of the uncovered Formica.
When a new dish appears, there is no order of the dish, and there is no drum roll.
Zhong's wife, Diana, and two female assistants are in four.
Burner at the back of the counter and two woks short-order style. (
No kitchen.
What you see in Hunan is what you get. )
Zhong and his son will send the plate.
People walk as they say.
The guests and the host mix at will.
The duck is very good, thin and muscular.
White, soft, light tofu and thick, hot meat are the ultimate choice for the combination of yin and yang.
The title of "chicken salad" is a bit misleading.
This particular combination has never been offered on a picnic or on church socializing.
Noodles, cucumbers and shredded chicken wrapped in sauce-
All sorts of spicy nuances. (
Recipes have been attached to this article. )
Not everything is spicy.
The chicken wings are crispy and fresh, and the garlic chicken is more fragrant than the terrible one, after tearing
The taste of the spicy shrimp is coming, and more onion cakes seem to soothe the taste.
Is this the best food?
Is this the best restaurant?
These decisions cannot be made objectively.
It can be said that in Hunan, the ingredients are first-class, the cooking is as distinctive as people want, the price is lower than what they need, and the owner is a very kind and sincere person.
Henry Zhong is planning to set up a Hunan Museum on the second floor of his new restaurant (
At 924 Sansome St. ).
He said: "One day before I kick the bucket, I want to give it to the city.
I came in 1948, nothing.
My children are educated on scholarships.
I owe too many people to this country.
So I want to do my part.
"As he said, he is not" after the dollar "in terms of his price ".
"It's not like opening a jewelry store," said Zhong . "
"Everyone wants to eat and I hope everyone can buy my food.
"I never keep any secrets," he said of his cooking . "
"You can come and see me.
Ingredients, equipment and (health)
Our inspection here is better than that in China.
I think our food is better.
"Customers come from all over the world now.
The Bell said, "it's okay.
I just do my job.
But the more publicity I get, the more scared I get.
If people are disappointed, this is the most cruel thing I can do.
I don't want to let them down.
"So why take on the challenge of a new and larger restaurant a few blocks away, and when his wife stays to run" foundainhead "he and his son run the restaurant
"Because," said Henry Zhong, "I like to see more people with smiling faces.
1 ounce chicken cucumber salad
Joan glue, cut into 1-inch-long pieces (
Or 1 oz of fans, Chinese fans or bean noodles)
1 to 2 cups of chopped cucumber (
Use fresh, green, strong cucumbers)
1 1/2 to 2 cups of cooked shredded chicken (shred by hand)
1 1/2 cup of rich sour and spicy salad sauce (approximately)(see below)
1 tablespoon of sesame oil (optional)
1 tablespoon chopped scallions (optional)
Soak the Agar in warm water for 15 to 20 minutes. (
If you are using bean noodles or bean noodles, soak them in warm water for 20 minutes and cook them in boiling water for 3 to 5 minutes.
Take it out and rinse it with cold water. )
Squeeze glue-
Dry the Joan glue or bean noodles in a bowl.
Sprinkle the yellow melon silk on the glue. agar;
Then put the shredded chicken on the cucumber.
Pour the salad sauce on the chicken and decorate it with sesame oil and scallions if needed.
Mix before serving.
2 tablespoons sesame paste with rich chili sauce (or crunchy-
Peanut butter)
2 tablespoons of soy sauce (or to taste)
4 tablespoons vinegar (or to taste)
1 tablespoon of chili oil 1 teaspoon of chili powder 1/2 teaspoon of black pepper 1 teaspoon of sugar (optional)
1 tbsp sesame oil 2 tbsp vegetable oil 1 tbsp chopped fresh ginger 1 tbsp chopped garlic 1 tbsp chopped scallion 1 tbsp white wine 1 tbsp hot mustard (optional)
1 to 2 cups of chicken with 1/2 teaspoon salt, mix the above condiments together.
Sour sauce boiled fish fillets 1 1/2 to 2 pounds sole fillets or other mild white fish 2 tablespoons chopped scallions 1 tablespoon chopped fresh ginger 1 teaspoon black pepper 2 to 3 tablespoons vegetable oil 2 cups broth 3 tablespoons soy sauce 1 2 tablespoons of sweet bean 1/2 teaspoon of sugar (optional)
2 tablespoons of vinegar salt and 1 tablespoon of liquid corn starch (
1/2 tbsp powder corn starch mixed with water)
1 tablespoon sesame oil, add 8 to 10 cups of water to the pan.
Cook it.
Dig the fish for about 2 minutes (
Do not overcook).
Put the fish in the serving.
Pour water from the pan.
Sprinkle scallions, ginger and black pepper on the fish.
Heat 2 to 3 tablespoons of vegetable oil in the pan until smoke.
Pour the oil on the fish. Clean the wok;
Add chicken soup;
Cook it.
Add soy sauce, sweet peas, wine, sugar, vinegar, salt (
But taste the sauce before adding any salt)
And liquid corn starch;
Gently stir until the sauce is thick and clear (
About 10 seconds).
Pour the sauce on the fish, decorate it with sesame oil and heat it up.
Change: for hot and sour fish, when you add soy sauce, add 1 teaspoon of red chili powder or 1 teaspoon of chili oil to the soy sauce.
For sweet and sour fish, add 1 to 2 tablespoons of sugar at the same point.
Spicy eggplant (AND MEAT)
1 American eggplant sauce (
Or 4 to 5 Oriental eggplants)
1/2 cup chopped pork with 4 tablespoons vegetable oil, leave fat 1 tablespoon chopped fresh garlic 1 1/2 tbsp Sichuan chili sauce 1/2 tbsp chopped pickled chili sauce month tbsp soy sauce 1/2 month dash cup chicken soup black pepper 1/4 month on 1/2 tbsp chopped fresh ginger spoon vinegar scallions sprint salt month parsleyCut shredded eggplant soup spoon sesame oil monthly 1/2-inch-
Thick slices 2 inch long;
The American eggplant should be peeled, but it should not be Oriental.
Heat the pan with the highest heat for 1 minute;
Then add vegetable oil.
As soon as the oil is hot, fry the chopped pork until it starts to change color, then remove the pork with a slotted spoon and spare it.
Heat the oil again until it smokes.
Add ginger, garlic and eggplant slices and stir well
Fry and mash with medium heat until the jacket is completely soft.
Add hot bean paste, minced pork, pickled peppers, soy sauce and chicken soup and stir for more than 1 minute at high temperature.
Add black pepper, vinegar, scallions, salt (to taste. )
Stir until completely hot and mix.
Decorate with sesame oil and parsley and serve immediately.
Some people may find this dish a little oily, but it is delicious.
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