RESTAURANTS; Beyond Paella - main dishes in spain restaurants

By Fran SCHUMERFEB.
The best food I had when I went to Europe three times was in Spain, where one of the strictest chefs I knew was born.
Closer to home, he and his friend Raoul took me to Manolo, a quiet little corner of a noisy town.
Manny Mendes and his wife Carol, born in Cuba, are native of Long Island and offer seafood if you wish, but there are plenty of interesting possibilities on their menu.
In a typical Spanish restaurant, a grilled portobello mushroom and arugula sandwich doesn't sound like a dish, but it goes with their lobster sandwich with smoked salmon and mustard lotion to make you
These dishes are considered fusion dishes in the United States and nueva cocina (
New Cooking)
Not only is it better than chorizos and oil in Spain
The entire Spanish restaurant in New Jersey serves soggy octopus;
They are also different species.
"Overall, I have never been to a Spanish restaurant as good as New York City," said my friend Miguel . ".
This is a real discovery.
"You may doubt his assertion when you walk into Elizabeth.
The streets bordering Manolo have a strong intensity, but there is no vitality or charm of Newark's iron plate, which is mainly the heart of Portugal and Spain.
On a dark and windy Sunday, a woman with a stroller was squeezed together by a paid phone.
A few steps away, a newly laid sidewalk leads to a quieter, more comfortable Manolo world.
In the advertisement, two-
The story house is divided into bars, rooms for parties upstairs and downstairs restaurants decorated with lace and wall panels.
The lights flashed and the tiles sparkled like a hand scrub.
Now you can taste the Spanish wines at a low price.
Unfortunately, Manolo has limited options.
Even the server agreed to Markham merlot from California ($25)
Richer and more interesting than Vina Las Torres Melo from Spain ($21).
Now, the waiter has prepared a large amount of toast, brushed with olive oil and served with a plate of chopped tomatoes. These do-it-
There are a few reasons why you yourself Brussels is better than prefabrication.
The oil, salt and garlic are mixed together to season, the tomatoes are very balanced and the toast is crisp.
"I like it," said a companion . " She began to help for the second time.
"I came here very hungry and it was the best option to get out of trouble.
The next appetizers, especially the less traditional ones, are an advantage of a variety of ambitious menus.
The grilled podomello mushroom sandwich is a colorful cake with rich goat cheese, arugula and sweet pepper.
Roole oil circled the plate and the caramel vinegar splash around the sandwich tasted like candy.
Lobster terrine is another pleasure, a fluffy slice wrapped in silky smoked salmon, with a mustard dressing, not too enthusiastic.
The mix is vibrant and subtle, a completely satisfying start.
It and portobello sandwiches are more interesting than fried squid and grilled octopus, which is over-cooked, but on the butter bean stew with chili and balsamic vinegar, it is very delicious.
In Spain, piquello peppers are a national obsession, sweeter and more smoky than American varieties when baked properly.
Manolo filled its version with crab meat filling, and the mild degree of crab meat filling was contrary to the intensity of pepper.
The shrimp and lobster cocktails are perfect, offering a rich, cold, sweet, and tasty tender seafood.
It would be nice if the successful dish continued rather than stumbling on the main course.
Many of the features are vinegar sauces and odd combinations, such as a special night with lamb, lobster and uninspired venison.
The Ducks on the regular menu are lush and tender, but why are they accompanied by meat, sweet and moist, and lobster?
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The other combinations are equally daunting, and the ingredients are not always well taken care.
At a recent special event, monkfish and the bacon combined with it were overcooked, and although it was accompanied by garbanzo bean ragout and pork tenderloin, pork
Mushroom cream drops in double
Cut beef ribs are very special;
If the meat is better.
On the other hand, I asked for an almost translucent butter bass slice that tasted like fresh fish on the dock.
When the waiter asked for steamed vegetables, the waiter brought back a dish, each of which was very delicious and strong.
The dishes and other dishes show the good quality of Manolo's ingredients.
The portions were plentiful and the price for dinner was cheap, including soup and better food. than-
The average salad is reasonable.
So, the problem with advertising is inconsistent, even in desserts.
The tiramisu of Manolo is a sweet cloud that will disappear in an instant, but the cheesecake is sugary and the cream cake will become dim.
Like dessert, dinner at the Manolo restaurant is mixed.
The regulars are back and I will be back, not only for bass, mushroom sandwiches and other successful dishes, but also for novelty: Finally, there is a thread of nueva cocina in the New World.
Manolo' s91 Elizabeth Avenue, Elizabeth (908)353-
The Basque hideout is 7674 kilometers away.
Warm and thoughtful service.
Recommended sandwiches for Portobello mushrooms, arugula and goat cheese;
Lobster skin with mustard milk;
Pepper stuffed with crab meat;
Steak with mushroom cream;
Steamed bass and vegetables; rack of lamb; tiramisu.
Lunch Price: $8. 50; entrees, $14; dessert, $4. 95.
Dinner: $8 for starters. 50;
$16 to $24 main course; desserts, $4. 95.
Lunch time: 11: 30 from Monday to FridayM. to 3 P. M. ;
Saturday and Sunday, from noon to 3. M.
Dinner: Sunday to Thursday, 3 to 10 pm. M. ;
Friday and Saturday to 11M.
Booking is recommended.
Big credit cards.
There is no wheelchair assisted toilet equipped with a wheelchair.
The rating is poor to satisfaction, good, very good, excellent, extraordinary.
The rating reflects the reviewer's reaction to food, atmosphere and service and takes into account the price.
Menu lists and prices may change.
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A version of this review was printed on page NJ14 of the National edition on February 15, 1998, with the title: Restaurant; Beyond Paella.