RENAISSANCE IN SPAIN LIGHTENS THE CUISINE - native dishes from restaurants in murcia spain

Edward Schumacher Zhan
1986 this is a digital version of an article from The Times Print Archive, before it starts online in 1996.
To keep these articles as they appear initially, the Times will not change, edit, or update them.
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While Americans like traditional Spanish food, such as paella and Spanish cold dishes, Spaniards are increasingly turning to other foods.
Many people call it a new Spanish dish.
There is no flavor and method that can be defined.
This is more of a process, starting ten years ago, growing steadily, reducing the taste of the food while maintaining the taste, sometimes clear and simple, and sometimes rich and simple.
"In Spanish cooking, a great revival is in progress," Inaki oyar, a chef at a popular restaurant and one of the pacesetters in Madrid, prencep de Fonner
"This is part of the tremendous social and cultural changes that have taken place across Spain.
The new Spanish cuisine includes Mr.
The hake baked by auyabid sits on a pureed green bell pepper sauce, a modern version of hake and sliced chili preparations.
Or the ox tail of a saint-
Sauces for green beans, leeks, onions and Swiss beets, all of which are Spanish favorites, are traditionally used in dishes that are more like stews.
Mayor of Cabo de Madrid chef Pedro larenbe, best chef in Spain, winner of the 1985 Culture Ministry Award
A mixture of quail meat, olive oil, wine vinegar, onions, Baili and grilled bay leaves in a refined version of the Spanish seven-leaf dish, which is more commonly used in pickled fish slices.
One of the hottest new chefs is 30-year-
Old Javier otadui from New England
Like the northern coast of Cantabria.
At his Madrid restaurant Penas Arriba, he prepared the latest dishes in Cantabria style, which included a boiled bass in an egg --
Based on saffron sauce, it is also related to Spanish Sephardic cuisine.
Advertising is like new French dishes and new American dishes. the cooking trend in Spain emphasizes freshness and family.
The grown ingredients and light sauces replace the taste of meat, game, poultry, especially seafood.
Victor Murray, who owns the mayor of Cabo, said the ad "you have to start with a good material ".
"Everything else is just a little improved, nothing more.
Spanish people eat more seafood than meat.
They may be second only to the Japanese in their knowledge of how to choose and prepare fish.
Whether it's grilled fish, boiled fish, or like Andalusia, with clean Fried, the new dishes continue this traditionTaste the batter
Even small towns far from the coast can eat fresh seafood almost every day from Spain's Atlantic and Mediterranean sea ports.
From familiar foods like big hali fish and sole fish to exotic foods, such as the goose's rattan pot or dragon fish, razor clams, known as navagas, and crayfish and crabs often seen on many different menus are like laundry lists.
New French dishes are creative, affecting a new generation of Spanish chefs, but as a unique dish, there is no real practice here.
In a way, this is because it is too stiff for Spain's more earthy and confident taste.
"The reaction of new food to snobbish"Otaduy said.
"It's crazy to bring foreign things that have nothing to do with the roots of a region.
In this sense, this is wrong.
"Then, Spain also has many years of history on the edge of most international cultural and social trends.
Franco's death in 1975 greatly changed this.
Today, ideas in writing, painting, film production are open and prosperous --
All creative and performing arts including culinary arts.
At the same time, the great economic progress of the past 20 years has given the Spaniards more money to travel and enjoy what was once considered a luxury --
It includes delicious food.
In fact, the quality of the food, whether it is a market, a family or a restaurant, has been greatly improved and seems to have reached a higher taste standard.
The way of life has also changed.
The Spaniards still enjoy the midday meal, but the preparations for joining the European Economic Community in January prompted people to change their work habits and shorten their habitual lunch break.
"No one's taking a nap anymore," said the gentleman. Oyarbide said.
"Spanish businessmen want to eat well, but they want to eat light food and go back to work.
This means that heavy dishes like paella are decreasing --
At least as part of the middle class's daily diet.
The new Spanish cuisine originated in the Basque Country and Catalan, which have historically been influenced by other cultures and are particularly geographically vulnerable to neighboring France.
Local dishes in both regions are also well suited to the idea of culinary reform, as seen in France and elsewhere.
For example, basic cooking depends on sauce without flour.
Basque verde is a classic Basque cuisine that ground a large amount of parsley with fish soup and olive oil.
Similar to the French neighborhood of Provence, Catalunya food is as creative as fish and poultry.
For example, fish are usually combined with ground hazelnut or almond paste, while meat is usually made from cooked fruits, such as in the region of orca, Catalunya, or cooked with pears
This history, coupled with
The Franco generation of chefs has laid the foundation for culinary adventure in the Basque and Catalan regions.
In the restaurant, the young chefs accepted the experimental attitude related to the new dishes and began to try their own local dishes without adopting French dishes.
Spanish new dishes avoid foods such as corn starch and flour that thicken sauces.
It has changed from using butter to more traditional, healthier local olive oil. (
You can find some of the best olive oil in the world in Spain. )
It also introduces fish to more and more recipes.
Familiar ingredients are being combined in new ways, such as Galicia crayfish and Navarro mushrooms called hongos.
The new ingredients are replacing the old ones: for example, at the Castile restaurant in Madrid, clams are used in traditional bean stews instead of greasy pig knuckles and sausages.
There are even new and old favorites on the ad, such as bon fish, tuna's delicious but greasy cousin, which may be filtered today by poaching in vinegar and water.
Looking everywhere for the best ingredients, such as sherry vinegar from Andalusia and emerald green virgin olive oil from Catalan.
"People want taste without weight . "Merino said.
Although many young chefs in Spain are supporters of the new Spanish cuisine, most are opposed to the idea of joining the culinary movement.
Instead, they notice that they are friends and they taste each other's food;
In this sense, they insist that their cooking is natural and not a fashion.
"If there is a conscious form, it is regional," he said . "
Like many young chefs, Otaduy began working in the restaurant kitchen at the age of 13.
Few people go to a regular or professional cooking school
The only exception is Mr.
The 27-year-old oyabid, from four generations of chefs, studied at griang-sur-
A well, Monterey.
Famous Swiss food and beverage school.
"Before, we were just sons of our father," he said . ".
"But young people don't do things just because they are told.
"The new dishes have moved from the restaurant kitchen to the Spanish family, partly because fewer and fewer chefs are employed, leaving more middle class --and upper-
Class families who cook for themselves.
When the cooking school suddenly became popular, creative recipes were filled with magazines and books.
Clara Maria Lamas, the owner of Madrid's famous alabic cooking school, is a patron of Spanish cuisine and sponsors Spanish culinary overseas exhibitions every year.
She tried to encourage cooperation between young chefs in the country, as she believed that cooperation would not breed imitation.
She said that the dishes made under the title of the new Spanish dishes will certainly maintain a delicious diversity.
"Yes," she explained, "the personality of our Spanish characters.
Quail meat in the seven-leaf dish (
Recipe from rolarumbe)
1/2 cup of olive oil #1
Onion size, chopped #2 cloves of garlic, crush some small branches of fresh Hundred Miles or small stems of 1/2 teaspoon of dried #1 fresh celery #6 black pepper, broken #8 qu1/2 cups of red wine vinegar #2 cups of meat broth (
Any dark or white meat)
#3 or 4 bay leaf Salt Tasting. 1.
* Heat the oil in a deep pan and fry onions, garlic cloves, Baili, celery stems and pepper with low heat for about 5 minutes. 2.
* When the onion is soft and transparent but not golden yellow, add the whole qu and fry it to light brown for about 5 minutes.
Turn around on the other side for about 5 minutes and turn brown. 3.
Add vinegar, broth and bay leaves.
Cover the lid and cook for about 45 minutes until your toes are soft. Let cool.
The dishes can be cold or eaten.
Can be stored in the refrigerator for 2 weeks.
Output: 4 copies.
Bass with saffron sauce (
Recipes for Javier Otaduy)
#2 salt-free sweet butter, it is best to clarify #1 white wine #2 fish soup or clam juice #4 sea bass fillet, about 6 oz 3/4 teaspoon of saffron line salt and pepper for every 1/8 cups of mayonnaise. 1.
Ad * melt 1 butter in a pan with wine, broth or clam juice.
After about 10 minutes, add the fish fillet and gently dig away.
Take it out and put it on the plate to keep it warm. 2.
* Put the mayonnaise together with the remaining butter and a cup of liquid used to dig the fish in another pot.
Heat and stir frequently until the sauce is smooth.
Cooking is not allowed.
Add saffron and season with salt and pepper. 3.
* Place the fish on a hot dish covered with sauce with vegetables.
Output: 4 copies.
A version of this article appears on page C00001, the national edition, in January 22, 1986, with the title: the Spanish Renaissance makes food a little lighter.