Remembrance of tacos past - mexican dishes in restaurants

I have a special moment right now.
Tonight's dinner is unthinkable: a Taco Bell original Taco burrito and burrito, and since I was a child, I have not profaned the taste of this foodie.
I committed a felony to this gourmet, partly because of what I am? and-avocado-
My Colorful memories in my 60 s
"Young people in their 70 s, when eating outside, are often Taco Bell.
Growing up in white and in the middle
In those days, the classroom in San Diego means that, as the post-modernist likes to call it "cultural hybridization", this is my birthright: mexicans may be "wet-backed" and "but our common history (and sometimes literally) genes, reiterated in a school trip to a Spanish delegation in the region, mexican food is our food.
Somehow, in Alta, California, Helen Hunt Jackson, Taco Bell shop feels like home --iron-
Kind of like a lantern.
Their cute little mission.
The facade of the style, scaled down to Disneyland, has a hole in the top --in-the-wall-
The bell tower with a fiberglass clock is very familiar to Southern California people like me.
Trash cans like saguaro cactuses and gas enhance the old atmosphere in California
Jet fire pits (an endless source of entertainment for teenager pyromaniacs in that dark age before iPod and Gameboy ).
Of course, the theme is
The parked building put a friendly face on the back of the enslaved Indians to the mission system.
Original Taco Bell logo-
Lazy Mexicans are known to doze off on cactus-
To Mexicans is like to black Americans.
But we don't have a clue, and the people who know the food, if not the real Mexicans, at least the Mexicans. ish.
This is not to say that my family is upset about the difference: Recently transplanted from Connecticut to resign in a Swedish syndrome way to make my mom unhappy --
Housewife cooking-
Hidden resentment, let-them-eat-
The 70-year-old mother's hamburger-assisted dishes were politicised by the MSand Maude --
We either don't know the difference between a real taco and a taco, or we just don't care.
But that was the case. This is now.
This is another reason why I eat Taco Bell tonight: I want to get a deeper understanding of the cultural conflicts between the past and the present ---
We are a whiter, more single-cultural society, and we have become a nation of hyphen.
Taco Bell reviewed the 1962 magic bread America, when the establishment of the chain was based on the assumption that, that is, the real Mexican food is too slow, too spicy, and too difficult to understand. even in the suburbs of Donnie in Los Angeles, Glenn Bell launched his chain there. "Buh-ree-
"Toh," I ordered the dish, which was prompted by the painful voice rendering on the early Taco Bell menu board. "Toast-ah-duh.
"When you can't even order in Habara, order at espanor!
Despite its buildings and barefoot, serape-
The mascot "Taco Bell Boy" in the dress insisted on Mexicans --
Brand ness, Taco Bell removed "Mexico" from Mexican food"-
Dilute it by downplaying it.
Since the 19 th century, the racial consciousness of white people in Southern California has shown their fear and dislike of Brown.
Peel people off the food they eat.
Mexican food is dirty and racist. -
Say our Brown in a coded way.
The skin neighbor in the south is the third.
World Cuckoo, urinating in the genetic pool of the great race-
It is a lasting myth.
1895, John G, A Chronicle of frontier life.
Bourke pointed out that for many years, "the detestable things cooked in Mexico have always been the favorite theme of Travelers" and then joined this interesting event, regrets that Mexicans are "indifferent to the presence of dirt and grease" (not to mention their "shocking generosity on garlic issues" and their "when using chili Colorado or chili Cape Verde "reckless ").
Taco Bell rejected his tongue and provided safe Mexican food to white Americans after the war.
Searing, translating exotic ingredients into gabacho idioms and automating Food preparation: tortillas sprinkled on tortillas become cheddar cheese;
The hand-made fragrant and delicious tortillas at tiwarner taco stand have become prefabricated taco shells, unified as widgets.
Most importantly, Glen Bell resituates the experience of eating Mexican food.
In the Gothic fantasy of white Americans, taquerias is indifferent to the presence of dirt and grease, supplying meat and colon with uncertain sources
The scar is hot and hot, in retaliation for the complaints of the white people in Montezuma.
Bell moved Mexican food to the right side of the track: bright lights and spotless operating rooms, at least in my experience the early Taco Bell was dedicated by Anglos and light Gu
(Obviously, the Times have changed: SoCal-based Mexican-
Americans interviewed by the story claim that Latinos who work and eat at Taco Bell are not uncommon.
"At the time, Mexican restaurants were considered dirty," says cooking historian Andrew F . "Smith, in an e-mail interview. Raised in L. A.
He recalled, "in racist Southern California, Mexicans and Mexicans --
Americans who were then called greasers were also considered dirty.
Before the arrival of Taco Bell, children in the British suburbs rarely eat Mexican food.
It sanitizes "Mexican" food (in many ways it also cleans up the image of Mexico --Americans).
"But what is the reason that Taco Bell lives in the United States, in the United States, public schools have added to the music curriculum in macho, and whitachce is the new pochini in the United States in 2007, hispanic is now the largest minority in the United States. -at 44.
3 million. they account for 15% of the population. -
64% of them are from Mexico.
Who needs part?
In more and more American cities, the real thing is just an obstacle, contrary to all the cultural logic, according to its website, the chain "serves more than 2 billion [American consumers] at more than 5,800 restaurants each year ";
2005, company-
The taco bell rang for $ month.
Sales were $8 billion, compared to $4 for franchisees. 4 billion.
However, as the parent company of the chain, Yum catering group
In its first quarterly statement of 2007S.
Operating profit fell by 11% due to "negative and unforeseen events of Taco Bell" (translation: E. Andromeda strain)coli!
Rat Hell! ).
Taco Bell is the most profitable brand in Yum.
In order to aggravate the predicament, the chain was squeezed by local restaurants on the one hand --
Mexican cuisine in style, on the other hand, "fast casual" competitors such as chipootle Grill, Qdoba and El Pollo Loco, Mexico (all of which, in the author's opinion of this article)
More authentic than the quality of Taco Bell ).
But there are different opinions about the culture and politics of eating in Taco Bell.
"This fake Mexican food made of steroids will never come close to my mother, tyaz [aunts] and willita [grandmother], Louis, 40, who used to cook for me and our family. valderas is an artist in San Antonio Chicano.
Francisco bustas of the "border"
Crossing writer lives in San Diego and remembers the cousin who works at Taco Bell saying beans are "not true ".
Bustos wrote, "I guess I just thought, right, claro que si, what does he mean by the fact that the beans are not real.
If they don't cook like our parents and grandparents do. . .
It changed everything on the plate.
There is no real plate without real beans.
On the other hand, Daniel Olivas seems to have savored Taco Bell's cognitive dissonance of the "very wrong" gloss of Mexican cooking.
"I admit that I am in awe of the distorted talent spent inventing something like pizza, Mexico," wrote olevas, a lawyer and fiction writer living in San Fernando Valley, California.
Obviously, he admitted, "it's not like the food my mom made at all, but I didn't expect it. . .
I am not the kind of Chicano who believes that Mexican food is sacred.
I will leave this snob to the French.
"But, Perry Vasquez's distorted, contradictory attitude to Taco Bell, the most able to summarize the brand's multi-price superficial, and the profound individuals we negotiate consumer culture, sometimes
Vasquez is an artist in San Diego whose work explores the culture of the border, and Taco Bell's "corporate administrator" devours every developable image of Spanish history and Mexico,
Ironically, when Vasquez grew up at the conservative fundamentalist High Point N, he "had a very good feeling" associated with the brandC.
He moved there with his mother and brother from escondo, California.
Vasquez wrote that after his parents divorced, I was really proud of it when a Taco Bell was "in my 60 s or early 70 s ".
"For me, it's like having a small part of California in North Carolina.
Most of my identity is from California.
I went there with my friend and said, "Yes, it's like a taco, it's fun.
We eat all the time in California.
Are they not very good ? "
Or, at the very least, I remember them being like this, ignoring my gourmet super I insisted that Taco Bell food was a frustrating simulation of real things.
This is the anomaly of memory: no matter how complicated my palette becomes, and no matter how politicised it becomes, I still feel nostalgic love for the taco, triggered by the first sensory memory, when the shell breaks down into a pile of tortillas and meat on the orange wrapping paper, the wrapping paper doubles like a tray.
The crunchy sublime, crisp, super sensory contrast
Thin shell (away from the chewy, chamois soft world of baking pan --
Warm tortillas provided by Tijuana tarkiras) and damp, spicy tortillas
Sweet meat: Taco Bell tortillas combine the delicious taste of the guest fries and sloppy Joes.
What's better for a child in his 60 s and 70 s, but why me, a gabacho who barely says jelly --O-
Striker Spaniard, so focused on pursuing a real Taco, it's my ironic dream to "run to the border", as the Taco Bell label line has, to leave a delicious bread in white, in the middle
The mythical rich class culture of Mexico is not only the fantasy of the ancient orientalists about returning to the homeland, but also the fantasy of Malcolm Lowry and Cabo wabosen, maybe my over-confidence in Mexican food is just the product of plustean's concentration on lost time, and I'm trying to get back to the endless summer of my San Diego Youth.
I performed a "CSI" before I bit my original taco "--
Just like an autopsy, anxiously checking the Taco Bell menu is stuck with "crispy, chopped lettuce" and I'm stuck with limp, frustrated lettuce.
Dissect it with a fork and I explore "real cheddar cheese" (no substitute is accepted!
) And xiaoqiu--
One or two more dishes--
It is said to be "seasoned ground beef ".
"I remembered the Carolina Highway Patrol who found a disgruntled employee dangling over his tortillas and found a lunch he had just sold.
I thought of dozens of people who were poisoned in 2006.
The outbreak of E. coli in Taco Bell nationwide.
I remembered the plague of mice who had a pleasant play near the Taco Bell in Greenwich Village;
NBC reporter Adam Shapiro described a mouse that was climbing up.
Then, like a gymnast, sway from the stool.
"Cute, in the way Willard meets" Ratatouille.
Treat these ideas as entertainment.
Bouche, I ate it for the first time.
I bite through mm
Thin shell, delicious like corn
Feed the cardboard in a damp environment, creaking creepy
Underarm humidity in New York summer
Chew, I'm in L. A.
The weekly food writer Jonathan Gold's comment to me is, "I don't think there is any authentic Mexican food "---
This is the work of the Pulitzer Prize.
The winning critic was also very excited to tell me that he was a man selling "manteca de carnitas. . .
Liquid lard presented in the process of making carnitas [fried pork], liquid gold.
I fried a few batches of chicken in it last night, with hot salsa and homemade tortillas, and I'm pretty sure I saw God myself.
"So what is gold, a person who admitted that he had" really experienced most of the half-text (e), the Frankfurt School, the Post-structure stuff "in his 20 s, drida said that drida was right when he gave up Chalupa in Western philosophy. Drida believes that meaning can never be suppressed because we use terms in a knowledge system to define each concept.
In other words, there is no universal meaning outside of the self.
Reference System--
In drida's terms, there is no "prior reference ".
Or, there is no authentic Mexico in this case.
None of the tortillas refer to the beyond tortillas.
So maybe I need to lose my fantasies about authentic Mexicans.
Somewhere along the border.
But I didn't do that until I maintained some liquid gold for gold.
I reflect on all the biographies and cross
Symbolically, I tried to stuff into a folded, fried tortillas.
I remember the mini by Perry basks.
A paper on this question: "What is a taco? Asking this question is the task of a fast food entrepreneur, as a modernist painter might ask: "taco" is an empty form, a type, A shell that can be stretched, expanded, reorganized, redefined, and recontextualized. . .
Perhaps to some extent until it is no longer a taco, then it becomes obviously packaged.
This is its originality.
But is it worth eating in my opinion? No. . .
Unless you face hunger. . .
Even so, maybe not. . . Orale!
"At least one thing is clear when I wolf down: you can't go home any more.