The following comments are published in The Washington Post's 2018 fall food guide. Poca Madre(Good/Excellent)
The chef behind some of the best tortillas in the area has raised his level of play this year by introducing Mexican cuisine, as Mexico has food, says Victor Albisu, diners are being "beaten" for their taste and hospitality ".
"After Del Campo impressed the carnivores, the chef now earns a lot of money
Five portions of crispy octopus made of almonds, plantains, habaniro and white chocolate, slow
Delicious cooked duck made of pineapple, Mexican pepper, etc.
Want to hear an internal joke?
Though Albisu vowed never to serve his fast food
Leisure Taco Bamba, who sells a blingy bag here: house-
Tortillas made with sweet lobster, beef, Arborio rice and caviar for $32.
Whether people like it or not, unlike the dinner here, the free cocktails here, most likely with mezcal, make you relaxed and elegantbut-
The relaxed restaurant is a model of high-end catering in 2018. 2.
5 starsPoca Madre: 777 I St. NW. 202-838-5300. pocamadredc. com.
Open dinner daily.
Price: $18-$24.
Sound check: Easy to 70 decibels/dialogue. --
The following comments were originally published in July 25, 2018.
A chef immersed in tortillas to taste Mexican cuisine on an upscale journey (Good/Excellent)
Let me say from the beginning that I don't like deconstructing food, which is almost always affected compared to what is usually prepared, that is, it is complete.
Why do diners work?
Insert A into B and possibly C-as opposed to that one-
To get the full effect?
Victor Albisu asked me to reconsider my position. He’s the chef-
Recently launched Poca Madre, a fresh report from Washington on Mexican cooking and a source for the first class called "Guacamole.
"The waiter said the dish shared the flavor of the popular green dip, if not the look.
Of course, no "avocado sauce" is more like a salad than standard mashed potatoes.
The trick is to introduce a little avocado-
Warm, gently crunchy in the sheath of tempura-
Other elements in the Bowl, including sparkling shishito and epazote, make sure to dress up anything on your fork with rich citrus juice and chopped tomatoes, with onions and jalapeno mixed at the bottom of the bowl.
Tortillas are not required;
The explosion of tempura perfectly filled the character.
The modified avocado sauce, which is warm and full of taste, makes you dare to return to the traditional bowl.
I'm not a fortune teller, but something tells me that "no" will be hot.
Poca Madre replaced the left of Albisu's chic South American grill Del Campo, which closed after five matches near Chinatownyear run.
The remaining space is dedicated to the chef's roubamba-casual concept.
The restaurant shares an address and a kitchen but has a separate entrance.
The door of Poca Madre leads to a narrow room with multi-storey seating and a small bar with free libation for nightly replacement, most recently honey and lime mixed with mezcal and Aperol.
And some naked CDS.
The size of the tortillas, accompanied by a delicious salsa, suggests good things.
They did the same.
In addition to the rethought avocado sauce, the dinner should start with squid and shrimp, which have become wide "noodles" with the help of abundant fresh herbs and coconut milk
When the "pasta" was swallowed, a minder came up and poured a little smoky mezcal into the bowl, encouraging us to re-taste the broth.
If lightning in the tropics can be captured, that's it.
Very good corn risotto should also be introduced to the table, punched with epazote leaves, circled with cotija and popcorn to highlight the attractive features, finish off with whitlake cut thick soup and a little bit of Oregon truffle shaved light, and remind you not to eat at the Gebo restaurant if you need. (
Poca Madre is an unusual Mexican restaurant offering wines from the country and the waiters are happy to pour them. )
Octopus has replaced tuna tartar as the most ubiquitous appetizer in contemporary restaurants, and I didn't get any complaints when the creature was originally in Poca Madre.
The kitchen stews the octopus very tender and then adds potato chips to the fryer.
The result was a brush with squid ink, sprinkled with sesame seeds, stacked on a white mole extracted from almonds, plantains, habanello and white chocolate.
Eat and repeat until lot no longer.
The contemporary environment designed by Maggie O'Neill, designer of Swatchroom, creates an attractive frame for food.
Look up and you'll see a bunch of plants with lights intertwined, or the super-sized sombreros.
Behind the main stand is a painting of the "Border Gate", where artist Richard Lew depicts 1988 photos of the United StatesS. -Mexican border.
Albisu said that the distinctive image is to convey inclusiveness, his background is Cuba and Peru, and his resume and travel immerse him in Mexican culture.
Here and There, Albisu shows his cheeky side.
Name of the place to take: Poca Madre (
Literally "little mother ")
It's Spanish slang "cool", says the chef.
He also found a clever way to add burritos to his carefully selected dishes, and proved that the price of this package for $32 was reasonable.
In two upright back-kitchen flour tortillas, sweet lobster, juicy Wagyu beef, one made of avocado leaves, truffles and fancy Arborio rice were found
A luxurious performance decorated with sparkling caviar. Excessive? Sure. Delicious? Same.
The chef said he happened to think of this indulgence while watching the HBO documentary Elvis: searcher.
So the name of this dish is-“The King” —
There is also a plate with a portrait of a singer.
Of course, the shared plates are also very large.
If you don't notice that all kinds of restaurants want you to share, share, where are you eating?
The most interesting platter in Poca Madre is a whole slow-down Duck --
Cook and make sweet with pineapple, jalapeno and mild, fruit-flavored Chilean guayilo. The fall-
In addition to the feast, there is a vanilla salad, which is a nice pause for a hearty duck bite.
Pork decorated with red pepper, mint and coriander is almost as good and placed on eggplant cream.
The most memorable dessert comes from the bar where liquid nitrogen creates fog and chill, making Ziggy Stardust different --
Imagine the snow going through with mazkar margar Tower
From other cocktails.
The name of the summer fruit is also frozen, let my first
Never put "drinks" on the plate and eat with a spoon.
The gloomy sweetness of the restaurant's early cooking has largely disappeared.
A lingering problem is the mole, which is the basis of fried chicken.
Albisu said he made enough dishes for several menus, but his cooking team has been checking;
I wouldn't regret seeing go pair goat cheese and avocado whips with white anchovies sprinkled with crushed little peppers (
Popular tapas in parts of Mexico-fried grass shoppers).
These elements designed to be eaten on tortillas seem to force each other.
The bill for dinner may sting.
If you like to drink, it's not uncommon for $100 a head if you order a few small plates per person.
Again, this restaurant should not be confused with any other Mexican restaurant in Washington.
Albisu offers a rich experience in Poca Madre.
Guac, which can shake the world of diners, is just a starting point. g point.
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