NEW RESTAURANTS IN LOS ANGELES: A STELLAR CROP - mexican restaurant palm canyon where dish used to be

Written by bryan millermarch 1985, a digital version of an article in the print archive of the times, it was published online in 1996.
To keep these articles as they appear initially, the Times will not change, edit, or update them.
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American, New American, Western-Los Angeles
No matter what you call their cooking style, the restaurants in the city are ripe.
From the last 10-
A day dining spree between established and updated eating spots seemsand-
The next generation of Los Angeles chefs has reached themselves.
Ensure and perfect level in a unique identity.
Many of these newcomers have brought formal training in French cooking, allowing them to refine the best things they had before.
Twenty years ago, cooking in California was linked to healthy food and vegetarianism.
When new French dishes appeared in the 1970s S, the chefs here began to try the state's rich fresh produce to design some appealing dishes
Occasionally strangecreations.
This generation has studied this possibility and put forward its own explanation.
In most cases, it's a false combination of ingredients --
"Sir, put a little blueberry sauce on filet's steak? '' -
In favor of a more coherent but equally colorful style of preparation and presentation.
California's cooking today is very focused and consistent in the best case, without losing freshness and vitality.
For example, in Camelions, one year-
An appetizer in Santa Monica is limestone lettuce, goat cheese, spiced walnuts, and a sweet pepper salad.
Despite the diversity of these ingredients, they combine tartness (cheese), hotness (spiced walnuts)and sweetness (red peppers)
Create a taste of complexity and harmony.
There is no doubt that Los Angeles is as obsessed with restaurants as New Yorkers.
In the city, the Sudanese in Hollywood lined up respectfully for seafood pizza, and last week discovered that a new Thai restaurant might be the subject of discussion at a business meeting, the fitness club's locker room, badinage, alternate between the prospect of Rams and playoff seats with a small Mexican grill serving grilled goats on Wednesday.
As a local newspaper recently reported, "a night spent in Los Angeles usually means dinner and performance.
Dinner is a show now.
"Advertising exciting dining is no longer the only province for the rich or for the consumer account crowd, and they can afford to visit two more luxurious French restaurants L'Orangerie or Michael's.
Now, people can find fresh, carefully prepared food at a fairly moderate price throughout the city.
New restaurants such as Angeli restaurant on Melrose Avenue, Talesai restaurant on Sunset Avenue, Colette restaurant on Wilshire Avenue and coriander restaurant on Monterey Park are reasonably priced, especially according to New York City standards.
These are usually very small.
Scale, highly personalized operation, comfortable but not extravagant, the chef can establish a harmonious relationship with the customer.
Colette, a delightful new French restaurant, is the most expensive of the above mentioned groups, with lunch for two, including a bottle of $10 wine at prices ranging from $50 to $60;
Dinner for $70.
The others are much less.
Typical menus are around barbecues, games, and fish (
Usually on mesquite or other exotic wood)
It is usually served with a bright, light sauce and vegetable puree.
All kinds of fresh vegetables and pasta are always sparkling and stirred in a light sauce with seafood or vegetables.
The way these young chefs cook is absolutely Catholic.
Many people travel abroad or get familiar with the local people and add international accents to their American recipes.
Over the past few years, there has been a significant increase in Japanese, Thai and Vietnamese restaurants in Los Angeles, adding colorful new patches to the city's National quilts.
In turn, diners know more about exotic food and produce. At the four-month-
Old Max au Triangle in Beverly Hills, an elegant French restaurant, German
The born chef Joachim Splichal serves a vegetarian dinner as part of the menu.
It starts with amazing and delicious sushi made of fresh vegetables made from avocado slices and rice in spinach leaves, a twist on traditional Japanese seaweed slices.
Sushi rolls are placed on the heart of fresh artichokes.
California cooking is known for being pure and thin like a marathon runner.
This is only part of the truth.
Ten years ago, the new dish had the same myth.
Butter, cream, foie gras and other encirclement agents are essential ingredients.
When it comes to luxurious desserts, these restaurants are not idle.
Max au Triangle offers about 24 fine desserts, including a full page titled Fantaisies au Chocolat.
Finish a 5-
Dinner with mango envelopes filled with lush chocolate mousse and mango pieces with orange sauce?
Wine lovers do not need to look for large and expensive restaurantsReserve wine cellar;
Even some of the smallest new places take wine seriously, offering an impressive array of labels from the West Coast.
Wine with wine glasses is becoming more and more common, and visitors to the east coast can taste dozens of California wines, some of which are of very high value and rarely go to New York.
Just as Hollywood studios have been trying to find ways to attract the attention of the audience, restaurant owners are caught in the need for innovation.
San Francisco, Los Angeles and other culinary centers in California, is the leading culinary laboratory in the United States.
Many innovative New York chefs for the first time
In the trough of Gaolu's famous kitchen, water has been poured for too long.
Looking West for inspiration.
Advertising this new respect for the younger generation of California chefs may cause resentment among French superstars
It's like a guy looking for a signature ran past Charlton Heston and asked Timothy Heton for a signature.
This could be the reason for an unusual hostile attack by a recent group of French chefs visiting New York on American cooking.
Roger Wilder, three chefs and bosses.
The star on the blue coast, Mullin de munkins, calls it a "joke ".
Jacques Maxime of nice Chantecler believes this is "French cooking with American ingredients, not new American cooking ".
"The American chef ended up receiving such attention from the French masters, which in itself may be worth celebrating.
They have a reason to drink a bottle. California)sparkling wine.
The apprenticeship is over.
KatsuA NGELENOS's competitor is New York, because of their passion for sushi, Los Angeles is good at sushi because of the large population of Japan and has access to a wide variety of fresh fish.
At present, the undisputed "in" position is Katsu, a fashionable sushi bar.
A restaurant north of Sunset Boulevard in Hollywood.
You need scuba diving equipment to find fresher fish, and this demo is great.
The decoration of the restaurant is black and white, with a long sushi restaurant at one end and five serious people --
Short chef with horns
Long-sleeved white shirt and thin tie.
No menu.
A waiter described the raw fish specials offered daily by the sushi bar and several cooked food dishes of the day.
For groups, it's fun to start with a sushi assortment, a compelling graphical pleasure --getting hand-thrown black-and-
White Ceramic platter
The four most recently introduced sushi varieties are shiny: Yellow-tailed flounder fish, Pacific salmon, and two tuna (
Toro regular and butter)
Smoked eel with scallions, sweet shrimp, sea roll scallops and fresh crabs wrapped in the same way.
The tempura crack of shrimp and vegetables is smashed without oil stains, and the chicken is hard to improve.
The restaurant has five special restaurants every night.
Dinner for $30.
Recently, it has been mixed with sea clams and seasoned chopped tofu. it is salty and delicious, and there are two kinds of soup.
The first is cold taro soup, similar to farina cooked with fish soup, and the second is extraordinary fish soup cooked with pumpkin, peas and ginger --Fish cake.
Then there is a small, completely burnt salmon steak, followed by a grilled lobster tail with a mix of sweet bean curd.
On this unforgettable evening, a variety of fresh fruits and berries are dotted with them.
Katsu, 1972 Hillhurst Avenue North, Hollywood. 213-665-1891.
Lunch from noon to 2 from Monday to Friday. M. ;
Eat at 5: 30 every day to 10: 00 at night. M.
Just seven weeks ago, the smart little restaurant at the renovated Beverly Court hotel was expected to become one of the brightest stars in the Los Angeles dining Galaxy.
As the sun flows through the high windows, illuminating the contemporary beige, this is a particularly uplifting place for lunchand-
Caramel Room, comfortable Rust
There are colorful banquets and flowers.
The menu is as neat as the atmosphere, and based on a few lunches, chef E.
Patrick Healey Jr.
Successfully prepared exquisite contemporary French
Exciting and loving California food.
An example on the list of appetizers is the tempting cold salad of crayfish tail, lobster and crab, sweet lettuceedged Cognac-
Creamy seasoning with juicy ripe mango slices.
There is a pleasant twist to the artichokes sauce: The heart cavity is filled with a pile of chopped artichokes and sprinkled with lemon
Lime sauce.
Some of the better lunch entrees are salmon slices rolled around the pencil
Thin asparagus with fragrant dry vinegar and butter sauce;
Grilled sailfish covered with garlic under the leaves of basil
Tomato sauce and Rose beef liver with vinegar and onion sauce.
Although we didn't have dinner at Colette, there were a couple of dishes that invited one back: roast duck breast with a red pearl and pink pepper sauce, served with celery root pancakes and a roast rabbit saddle, with fresh hundred miles, bacon and vinegar --mustard sauce.
Colette, 9360 Wilshire Avenue, Beverly Hills. 213-273-1400.
Breakfast from 7 to 11. M. ; lunch 11:30 A. M. to 2:30 P. M. ;
Dinner from 10: 30 to 6M.
His year.
Santa Manila's old gems have not yet been sniffed out by Los Angeles gourmets, but it won't be too long.
The restaurant is located in a stucco cottage. each of the three small restaurants has a fireplace with colorful French tablecloths and pastoral art.
During lunch time, it was pleasant to have a cool garden terrace in front. French-
The well-trained Elka Gilmore, who is only 23 years old, proves the solid and restrained nature of modern California.
French food, a refreshing change from the creation of some kaleidoscope that the city often encounters.
Young and green service people can be slow, but it's hard to find in an attractive environment like this.
A recent lunch begins with a vivid combination of grilled eggplant strips, which are served on both sides with two plates of mild goat cheese and tomato horns, with soothing balsamic vinegar.
Chicken salad with grilled fresh chicken strips, deliciouslaced dressing.
Miss Gilmore is also good at pasta, steak and seafood.
We enjoyed a bowl of vibrant sauce combined with sunny al dente angel hair pasta
Tomatoes, fresh basil, garlic, roasted peppers and Parmesan cheese.
The grilled steak with a slice of boursin cheese on it takes more time to put in the oven and let the cheese melt, but on top of that, it's still on the mark.
Two sashimi
Mandarin fish with orange butter sauce, fried salmon slices with mellow lemon sauce-
Although the sauce is timid, it is fresh and cooked well.
There's something like this on the dinner menu, and more --
Stir-fry veal spareribs with bacon, pearl onions and masala, roast lamb with pomegranate sauce, and stir-fry Scottish prawns with blood orange sauce and peapods.
Camelon, 246 26 Street, Santa Monica. 213-395-0746.
Lunch from Tuesday to Saturday at 11: 30. M. to 2:30 P. M.
Dinner from 6 to 10 on Tuesday to SaturdayM.
Sunday 5:30 to 9:30M.
Il giardinoi has a feeling that this place can be particularly bad when entering and seeing four casual tired men sitting on corner tables playing cards and exchanging nicknames in Italian. ''They are -
How to say in English? -
"Our cronies," said an Italian waiter . "
You will not stumble upon this sunny Florence
Casual trattoria style.
It is hidden on a residential street in Beverly Hills.
Opened for only one year, Il Giardino has gradually gained a reputation outside of its knowledgeable and good Limited circle
Italian clients and privacy
Looking for celebrities
The long rectangular restaurant, all of which are white and green with a semi-bare wall on one side of the garden fence, gives a lovely greenhouse effect.
In the best Florentine tradition, the style of cooking is pure and direct.
Meat and fish are expertly roasted with premium olive oil and lemon, or fresh herbs, and pasta is an understatement example.
A articulate, attentive and thoughtful ma itre d. h. otel shakes ratt's specials in such a tempting way, emphasizing with gestures and kissing his fingertips, almost all
Not all dishes are in line with the bill, but in the home country, it is not possible to have a sufficient quantity to be done more realistically.
Smoked salmon on pancakes, topped with cream and lemon, presents a new look --
A better combination than it sounds.
At lunch, there are a variety of appetizers on the two buffet tables, and there are many to offer.
Grilled eggplant slices, pickled peppers, zucchini, seasoned pork, clams, mussels, and all kinds of cheese are delicious.
Some foods, such as marinated artichokes, lack seasoning.
The chef has an advertisement.
The average number of hits in the pasta department is 500: penne made with delicious tomato sauce and translucent ravioli stuffed with spinach and pine nuts is delicious;
Gnucchi is relaxed and healthy
The texture of the risotto is cheesy.
The main course in this restaurant is complete, from giant wolf teeth to fried lamb chops.
For dessert, Il Giardino combines espresso with tiramis u
Soaked lady fingers, mascapone cheese, whipped cream and chocolate chip.
Il Giardino, 9275 Shanxi Third Street, Beverly. 213-275-5444.
Monday to Saturday at 11 NoonM. to 2 P. M. ;
Dinner from 6 to 11M. Closed Sunday.
If you find yourself strolling on rakish Melrose Avenue in alongHollywood, in a way this is Columbus Avenue, Los Angeles, Angeli is a great place for a quick pizza or TuscanyAnti-Pasto style.
The young staff first found something.
Rate the dishes at a very moderate price.
These three have only 12 tables. month-
Old trattoria, first come first served.
Taste antipasto with fresh cold fried zucchini, fresh mint, egg rolls, rustic pork sausage, marinated mushrooms and artichokes, red onion coriander rice salad, stewed onions, grilled ricotta cheese.
Everything is obviously prepared every day, and the seasoning is correct on the trademark except for the faint Thistle.
The homemade pizza dough bread is great for soaking the sauce.
The 10 pizzas on the menu follow California's preferences and everything is on the shell except the palm leaves.
Try the verified cal version. The deep-
Stir-fry the heart of the pig, the sudden mozzarella cheese, ricotta cheese, sausage and tomato
Basil Sauce is an uplifting combination, better than grilled Calan sauce that requires more seasoning.
Angeli also offers a hearty Italian sandwich and an addictive cheese and rice fritters.
7274 Melrose Avenue Angeli213-936-9086. Open 11 A. M.
Midnight every day.
Max au TriangleW learn about the trends in Los Angeles and develop to small, highly personalized restaurants with limited menusmonth-
The old Max au Triangle is a huge exception.
747 in the middle of Piper's cub
In fact, the restaurant on the second floor of the luxury shopping center in Beverly Hills is like a modified aircraft hanger.
The metal mesh veil on the high arched ceiling almost obscures the lighting and plumbing above, while on the ground everything is charming and refined. Well-
Interval Table for Rosenthal china sports, glittering silver plate, fragile crystal, Gold
Spotted carpets, harps and piano music that float in from the bar, as well as luxurious green plants that surround the room, provide the right environment for the most exciting food in the city at this moment.
Advertising 29-year-
Old German chef Joachim Splichal-
Born in France, trained in classic French, is a creative chef who instinctively knows the boundaries between creativity and preciousness.
He has the incredible ability to embrace the rich fresh products California offers, turn them upside down, and regroup them into exciting but almost always logical food.
For example, the fresh abalone is wrapped in an envelope of cabbage, and on the ventilated tofu sauce, its texture and taste are perfectly combined.
As a whimsical afterthought, he crowned the parcel with a soft bread sprinkled with sesame seeds.
Other memorable combinations include a cold plate of pink fresh crayfish, like a drooping flower at the bottom of a fresh Thistle in a sparkling tomato sauce pool, a crispy pie, there are some damp pigeon and large lobster in it with a delicious veal.
Soup and soy sauce.
Although the combination in the pie looks unlikely, it works beautifully.
Even desserts have a fancy taste: delicious pine mousse decorated with pear fan and fresh pear sauce, tea and pear William sorbet, and most importantly, mango envelopes filled with tempting chocolate mousse and mango blocks covered with orange sauce. Mr.
The classic dishes of Splichal were equally successful.
The best of them is a rustic dish made of garlic and fresh Baili wood with rare mutton slices.
A kind of cockscomb that is not often encountered these days is based on a strong reduction and good
Red wine seasoned.
9-restaurant-
The page menu, including dessert, is very complicated and should be mailed to customers when booking.
It features seven prix fix meals priced from $35 to $55, plus nearly 20 appetizers and many daily specials.
This $40 vegetarian menu is imaginative and delicious, and even non-practitioners are happy to attend an evening event.
The service is sharp and helpful, and the wine list has the best and reasonably priced treasure house in California. Mr.
Splichal enjoys a regional reputation at the Seventh Street Bistro and Regent's club in Los Angeles, and now he is on a bigger stage.
If he maintains this quality, he will soon join the ranks of America's most watched culinary idols.
Max au Triangle, 233 Beverly Avenue North Beverly Hills. 213-550-8486.
Lunch from Monday to Friday. M. to 2:30 P. M. ;
Dinner from 10: 30 to 6: 00 Monday to Saturday. M. ;
The piano bar is open from Monday to Saturday until midnight and serves desserts and light appetizers.
The advertisement for the unusual new restaurant in the city is not a trendy grill or a grand gourmet Palace, but a modest, pleasant establishment in a shopping center known as the new Chinatown.
It is a restaurant called coriander restaurant, which is composed of an amiable and enthusiastic Hong Kong native T. S.
Zhang who provides food for Chinese Buddhist temples-
Vegetarian protein dishes that mimic meat.
This ancient tradition was done skillfully and deliciously with tofu and gluten, which was extracted from wheat flour.
Cooking legerdemain is, first of all, a giveaway appetizer dish with three pieces of beef that look like peppers, pork slices and chicken wings.
The taste and texture are different, but when you dine here, you realize that this cooking is not just an attempt to replicate something, but a taste of its own --
It can be quite good.
The menu is large and you may need help to complete it.
Some of the best appetizers are dark.
Fried taro balls and fried
Fried vegetable dumplings, the latter crispy outside, bold seasoning.
Another feature is the strange corn porridge and cabbage soup, which are carefully mixed in both colors to reproduce the symbol of yin and yang;
This is a delicious combination, rich in sweet corn.
The chopped pork-like fried gluten is perfectly combined with loose and crispy Chinese noodles, which is a winner.
People roll it in the lettuce leaves like a taco.
Add burnt eggplant and green pepper to the exciting black bean sauce.
Not all dishes are well done, especially those with too many ingredients. Ask Mr.
Zhang asked for a guest.
Menu item called Beijing ribs
These delicious snacks are fried with blan's pecans dipped in a ventilated batter and then served with a sparkling sweet and sour sauce.
Coriander restaurant, 108-
110 Garfield Avenue North Monterey Park. 818-280-4215.
Lunch menu from Tuesday to Sunday. M. to 2:30 P. M. ;
Dinner menu available from Tuesday to Thursday throughout the day. M. to 9:30 P. M.
Friday to Sunday until 10 pmM. Closed Monday.
In recent years, TalesaiT has surged in Thai restaurants in Los Angeles, from storefront families
Run in large, noisy places such as the fashion Tommy Tang Siam cafe on Melrose Avenue in Hollywood.
Talesai is a newbie to the scene, and he offers some spiced dishes in a beautiful modern setting.
Advertising if you have a problem, the amiable waiter will take you through the cooking jungle, one of our best suggestions is Talesai duckling, half a duck marinated with ginger, steam until near-cooked pepper and soy sauce and flash-
Fried until crispy.
The meat is pink, juicy and the skin is very dull. Deep-
Stir-fried pompano with a slightly spicy chili sauce is better than smoked mackerel with soy sauce and vegetables.
The traditional Thai noodle making is called "Mi crock" and the result is very good.
It mixes crispy rice noodles with shrimp, chicken, bean sprouts and scallions with a sweet chili sauce.
The day of lunch is a special day when shrimp and crab meat are mixed with mild curry sauce and coconut milk, soothing and delicious.
Comfortable dining room, white walls, black banquets and abstract oriental art and sculptures, is an elegant and cheerful place for lunch or dinner, from some dim setting, this is a crowded Thai restaurant scattered in New York.
A classical guitarist performs on Wednesday, Friday and Saturday nights.
Talesai, 9043 Sunset Avenue, Beverly Hills. 213-275-9724.
Lunch from Monday to Friday. M. to 2:30 P. M. ;
Dinner from 5: 30 to 10: 30 Monday to SaturdayM. Closed Sunday.
A version of this article appears on page C00001, national edition, March 20, 1985, with the title: new restaurant in Los Angeles: First Class crop.