Is the Entree Heading for Extinction? - main dishes in spain restaurants

By Golden SEVERSONDEC.
The main course has long been the undisputed core of American restaurant meals, but it is dead. O. K.
So maybe it's not the time to write an obituary for the main course.
But in major dining cities such as New York, San Francisco and Chicago, the main course was attacked.
Although the disease of the main course was initially diagnosed in the late 1990 s, when the rise of small plates kicked off the American menu, the recent attacks became even more serious.
The upstarts like the snack menu, the little poppatine they offer and the devouring eggs, are invading from their flank.
Crudi, salumi plates and cheese plates have been piled up.
Once a loyal lieutenant's appetizer asked for more attention on the menu.
Fortified side dishes and salads prepared by seasonal ingredients and innovations have announced new authority.
But perhaps the most serious threat is the public who eats, who seem to have lost interest in protein.
The main course was full.
"I think the main course has been in trouble for a long time," chef Tom Colicchio said . ".
"It's a boring thing to eat the main course, too much.
That's part of why he left the classic appetizer --entree-
Gramercy Tavern's dessert rhythm at its opening in 2001, one of New York's first well-known restaurants to unwrap the menu into a long list of proteins, mixing and matching side dishes and sauces into a family-style meal.
In newer restaurants, the main course was pushed deeper into a corner.
In the West Village, diners with spotted pigs can browse through nearly 20 dishes, including snacks, plates and side dishes, but only five main courses.
People order food in Boqueria for only one quarter, which is what restaurants near Flatiron call racione, or entree-
Seamus Mullen, chef and partner, said: "dishes of the size.
In Gemma, which opened in Bowery this summer, so many crudi, antipasti, carni and crostini are available on the menu, which is probably the main event, only two and a half inches of space is given at the bottom of 14-inch-long menu.
This trend is even a challenge for senior New York diners who are trying to get through the new menu.
"In the Vino academic world, we haven't tasted the main course yet," said Gail Green, a New York restaurant critic and writer . ".
When she and her companion ordered everything they wanted to try from the rest of the menu, they were full and there was no main course.
Other restaurants have completely abandoned the main course.
Diners who go to Jean Georges for lunch choose two dishes from 20 food lists of the same size for $28.
The menu of the Gordon Ramsey restaurant Maze at the London Manhattan hotel offers the same number of options, ranging from $12 to $18, there is no indication which one might be the best as an appetizer or main course.
Why is the main course in danger of becoming a California eagle on the menu?
There is a theory that people like to customize their own world.
The personalized playlist on the Ipod has replaced the album.
TiVo has replaced channel surfing. In this quick-cut, video-on-
The main course for the need universe is Walter Cronkite.
Chef Mario Batali said: "As a diner, 17 bites of one thing and 17 bites of the other are absolutely boring, not what I want to eat.
"At the low end, people are looking for options.
"He has no main courses at both New York restaurants Otto and Casa Mono.
Andrew Freeman, a San Francisco-based restaurant consultant, said customers who saw a new ingredient on the food show or blog wanted to try it out without committing to a whole set.
"It's like they want to date their food before they get married," he said . ".
Young diners feel more comfortable calling in higher locationsEnd restaurant.
They dress more casually, ordering appetizers for the main course, avoiding the traditional main course and accompanying starch and vegetables. “The big, gut-
Destroying the main course does not really pose a risk to diners.
Colleen Rush, author of the mortal Food Guide, said: "Free adventure and experience "(
Broadway Books, 2006).
The impact of food storage from around the world has also had an impact.
More exposure to meze, snacks, sushi and snacks has changed the way Americans think about the structure of a meal.
So chefs can break the traditional French restaurant dining mode by offering small, strong global flavors, says Eve Felder, vice president of the American Culinary Institute.
"It's more like going back to the way people celebrate the table," she said . ".
Although it's hard to imagine when single
Paul Friedman said that the main course is not the norm. The concept is only 75 or 80 years old. it is not necessarily something to cherish. professor of history at Yale University, new book "Food: editor of taste history (
University of California Press).
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Victorian food, he said, had multiple entrees, roast beef and venison, accompanied by fish and dozens of accompaniment, and died in World War I.
"You ate less luxurious dishes in the 20 th century and spent less time on it," he said . ".
He also pointed out that modern America has always enjoyed a variety of dishes.
Think about the buffet, the cafeteria, the buffet and the historical buffet
Change the variety of fast food service.
The advertisement "this is really not so avant-garde --
"But looking back, it reflects the desire of Americans to have a lot of choices," he said . ".
This shift is still confusing for many.
The diners were embarrassed to ask the waiter if they had ordered enough food.
This action even creates a new verb.
After writing a seemingly random list of dishes, it's easy for the waiter to ask, "Can I order for you ? "?
Main course for the waiter and kitchen
Eating less makes work harder.
At Morandi, chef Jody Williams hosted a menu full of small dishes with a beautiful Brancino platter or two-man steak, and the computer system has been redesigned, including a thing called segue bar.
The waiter plugs in electronically between a set of dishes.
Instead of indicating a traditional class break, the Segue bar gives the waiter time to remove the plate and reset the table, it simply slows down the flow of the kitchen.
Jean-said that in the spice market, food is served in a family style in different sizes, and people order an average of three and a half dishes per person.
George in Wang Mr. Teng
According to his statistics, this is a lot;
On a busy day, when thousands of people pass by, it means his staff has to come up with an amazing 3,500 plates of food.
Still, he likes the trend.
"It would be easier for me to have three or four bites to please you," he said . ".
If at this point you want to know if you should start the main course
Support group for lovers, relax.
First of all, there are always steak houses, and the number of steak houses has surged in the past few years.
They provide a black one in the same formatand-
Global, white counterpoint for main coursefree dining.
Michael Mina of San Francisco
Chefs, known for their elaborate, small courses included in a main course, are working on both trends.
He has just opened a strip steak house in Las Vegas, and about a year later he plans to open a bar and restaurant in San Francisco where there is no main course, instead, 25 dishes of the same size are divided into five categories.
People will share beef even in steak houses.
"It's still a social place," he said . "
Other restaurants realized that they might have done too much.
When Manhattan's latest molecular cuisine, Tailor, opened in the fall, the menu was divided into salty and sweet categories.
Chef Sam Mason then added a second larger portion and a higher price to the four course to help those diners who want it, as the server recently told me, "more
Finally, there are small plates, large plates and sweets on the menu.
Then New York City purists.
Later this winter, when Kerry heffnan opens the South Gate in the south of Central Park, the main course will start.
"There are times when you want to try everything on Earth, but more often than not, you want to feel like you are being fed, nurtured and nourished," he said . ".
"I think it's because you have your own plate.
"At Prune, defending the main course is both a matter of principle and a matter of satisfaction for diners.
"We still have six dishes in the middle because I still have the attention of a meal," said chef and boss Gabrielle Hamilton . ".
She also refused to have the waiter and bartender play a song or two on the restaurant's playlist.
"You have to listen to the whole album," she said . ".
A version of this article appears on the New York F1 page with the title: is the main course heading towards extinction? .
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