How 'Italian Food' Became A Global Sensation - most popular restaurant dishes in america

Twenty years ago, Italian food was mainly cooked by Italian immigrants in the family kitchen.
Related to Chef ardee's canned pasta, cheap ingredients and pasta with red sauce.
No extra virgin olive oil, no chef, no height
The pizza restaurant provides customers with a variety of ingredients, as well as a variety of homemade ice cream. "[Italian food]
Considered quite low
But cute-
"There's Pizza, red sauce and marinade here," said food writer John Mariani . ".
"But since then, it has not only become the most fashionable food in the world, but also the most fashionable food. . .
One of the healthiest
Food and Wine reporter Mariani of Esquire magazine is the author of How Italian cuisine conquers the world, a social history of the world's most popular cuisine.
He explains how "porridge for the poor" has transformed itself over the past 20 years, "dominating global cuisine", gaining status, class and recognition in restaurants, and being a healthy substitute for meat --centric diets.
This is not always the case.
In the past, the food in Italian restaurants was related to heavy cream and cheese.
Oily pasta and thick sauce filled with fat slices of meat and fish
Mariani said the main reason is that the ingredients are rich and the cost is low.
"People think we can have 10 meatballs if we want.
We can have pizza 12 inch wide instead of pizza 6 inch wide.
"It was translated into too much food in the restaurant, too much sauce and too much food," he told Terry Gross of fresh air . ".
"Only in the 1990 s, so-
The so-called Mediterranean diet later appeared, and the entire food pyramid we learned in high school was overturned.
Now the protein is at the top.
At the top, beans, grains, pasta and olive oil are now at the wide bottom, which is most of what we should eat.
"Chefs who use better ingredients have also promoted the development of Italian food.
Mariani said that in 1980s and 1970, chefs were unable to access ingredients that they now take for granted --
Extra virgin olive oil, balsamic vinegar, fungus porcini, white truffles and real Italian ham are rarely seen outside Italy.
"These ingredients are not available in any form, shape or form for Italian chefs, no matter how expensive their restaurant is," Mariani said . ".
"They had to use white mushrooms instead of fungal Bolshoi, and they had to use olive oil of poor quality and did not import pasta.
They are at a disadvantage in showing the delicious food.
Mariani said: "Today, he is more likely to order a meat dish at an Italian restaurant that is more complicated and more interesting than ordinary old pasta.
When he goes to the restaurant, he goes like himself.
Critics Ruth Leahy's comments on restaurants for the New York Times are not a cover-up.
"Even if I wanted to be anonymous, it was a problem that didn't make sense," he said . "
"For the New York Times commentator and the Los Angeles Times critic, this is an issue that makes no sense. [Restaurant
There are pictures of them in the kitchen.
I remember one time in a restaurant where Ruth resie was in platinum --
Wearing a golden wig with big glasses, the restaurant owner nodded to me and said, "Look who's at Table 6 ? "? ' And I did.
Mariani added that he had a suggestion for gourmets who wanted to be seen as restaurant critics while dining out.
"Become a regular visitor and you will be a king in the restaurant," he said . ".
"Only twice a month.
Not every week.
Go to the restaurant twice a month.
They will love you and welcome you back with an index card on you.
This is the way to really recover-treated.
"Italian immigrants may mainly serve their neighbors who are familiar with food, but soon cafes and pastry shops began to be welcomed by other ethnic groups.
Going to Little Italy is like going to Chinatown.
Tourists who are used to American apple pie, German strudel and Jewish babka can go to an Italian cafe, taste dark espresso with lemon zest on the tea tray and taste sugar --Powdered coconut milk-
Pancake roll and fennel stuffed with plush cream
Flavored biscuits with names such as bscotty (twice baked)
Receiving treatment, dei morti (
Bones of the dead)
Baqi di dama (lady's kisses)
, And brutti ma buoni (ugly but good).
The color of Italian pastries is almost sparkling
The red, white and green of the new Italian flag-
Others are full of pastry cream or cream, and a lot of dark chocolate.
Cookies full of hazelnut and cakes full of sugar gourd, once made only during the festival, are now always in the shop window.
In the summer, the fresh citrus center is driven by a car with a pleated paper cup.
Pokey man, "a name derived from the Hawker's song --song come-
"Oh, Che puke! " —
"Oh, how small!
"This candy is a rare indulgence for most people in the old country;
They often visit the United States.
One of the first 1820-plus ice cream shops in New York was the upscale Palmer Garden, whose immigrant owner, Ferdinand Palmer, decorated it with gold-plated pillars, huge mirrors, and an Italian band
In 1892, the opera impresario opened a candy shop named after him on Grand Street, where he could entertain his musicians and friends.
Veniero's, located on East 11 th Street, started as a billiard room in 1894, selling a small amount of candy and coffee, and developed into a very successful pastry shop for Franklin D.
Inauguration ceremony of Roosevelt
These cafes and pastry shops are a small treat for Italians in the United States.
With the exception of a few people, no one has had the experience of eating or running a restaurant in a restaurant, and no extra money is spent on boring things like eating out.
Since the food at home is so delicious, there is no reason to go out for dinner anyway.
Few Italian restaurants
In New York, the 19 th century was usually owned by Northern Italy.
One of them, Riccadonna, is a very famous place.
Package 30 cents (
So a modest sum)
A seven-course grand banquet cost $1. 25.
Napoli immigrants did bring their favorite street food to the United States.
Pizza is a kind of sandwich or snack. they fold the skin of the pizza and eat it.
The record shows that the first real pizza shop
Although there was no term for the place where pizza was sold at the time --
Founded in Italy in 1780, Peter Colicchio opened Peter. . . e basta cosï (Peter . . .
That's enough)
At Santa Ana Palace in Santa Maria, Naples.
Later, he gave the title to Enrico Brandi, who changed the name to the pizza shop Brandi and gave it to his daughter, Maria Esposito. (
The Brady pizza shop is still there. )
Pizza is popular locally as a strict Naples-sourced street food, making the arrival of the new Queen of Italy in 1889 a reason to promote local food in the city.
Esposito named a pizza after her name, Pisa Alala Margherita, made in three colors of the new Italian flag-to honor her visit
Red mozzarella cheese and green basil-
She announced her favorite in diplomacy.
Although not anywhere else in Italy, pizza marmargherita suddenly became popular in Naples.
The term pizzeria did not appear in Italian print until 1918 --
But the idea came to the United States through the Neapolitan who settled in the eastern city.
The first famous pizza restaurant opened in the United States was G.
On 1905, Lombardi restaurant on Spring Street, New York.
At first, the store began selling pizza to immigrants, especially those Neapolitan who were craving it, and it was impossible for them to make pizza for them in the kitchen at home.
From there, the popularity of pizza has grown rapidly, first in Italy and then in Italy --
American community.
By the age of 1930, most of the Italian neighborhoods of the eastern coastal city had pizza shops, many of them were pubs, and some were independent.
Because of the low cost of its ingredients, pizza became more common than Naples, and the number of ingredients grew rapidly, usually with regional distortions, just like the white clam pizza from Pepe's pizza, which opened in New Haven in 1925. Chicago-style deep-
Pizza Pan, boiled in a black iron frying pan, was built in Chicago in 1943 by Uno Pizzeria of Ike Sewell and Ric Riccardo.
The thickness of the dough and the heavy use of different ingredients represent the idea of the Midwest that it is always better to make a bigger dish.
After the war, when GI Ira Nevin returned from Italy to New York's New Rochelle, the pizza maker received the Gospel, combining his family's expertise in the oven and his new love for Neapolitan pizza, he came up with the Baker's proud gas --
Baked ceramic pizza oven.
Before that, pizza was baked by hand. built, brick-
An oven lined with coal burning.
In the eastern city, pizza is still considered simple, cheap, full-belly food, especially on Friday night, where Catholics are still banned from eating meat, A cheap bottle of wine or beer.
To 1950,-
Sales soared, so special cartons were made for this purpose, usually printed with roly-
Paulie, the bearded Italian pizza shop turned her cheeks and said, "hot and fresh!
"Or" you have tried all the others and do your best now!
"However, most Americans never heard of pizza at that time.
New York Herald Tribune food columnist Clement paderford wrote in 1939: "If someone suggests 'pizza Pip' after the theater, don't think it's going to be Apple's
"It will be a surprise in your life. . .
A good gimmick to surprise visiting relatives who will soon travel to the east for the World Expo.
They were surprised that the pizza was pronounced "peet-
Za, Brown will do the work.
"After the war, Americans began to recognize pizza as a fast food, as well as hamburgers, hot dogs and chips, so by 1953, Kona Dean Martin (
Dino Paul croxti, an abruze immigrant born in storbenville, Ohio)
Harry Warren's song, "That's Jasmine," was a great success (
Born in antoxadnio Guaragna, El Salvador)
Jack Brooks whispered: "It's a pain when the moon hits your eyes like a biga pizza pie!
"While Martin thought the song was ridiculous and didn't want to record it, he made his debut in the movie caddie, with the single number second on the Billboard charts.
Americans like this stupid stunt song because Italians seem to like the pizza stereotype they like better than any other nation --loving, pasta-
Happy sensualist.
By 1955, a character in the popular TV comedy "honeymoon man" may joke
Calorie pizza makes American audiences laugh.
The Celentano brothers launched their first frozen pizza in 1957.
A few years later, Rose and Jim Totino, the owner of the first pizza shop in Minneapolis, launched their own frozen pizza brand, which by the end of 1960 was top notch
Sell frozen pizza in America.
It was bought off the pill in 1975.
Buried for $20 million.
Italians also love their hero sandwiches, long, sliced Italian seed bread stuffed with mozzarella cheese, provolon, ham, lettuce, peppers and other food, even meat
The "hero" in the question is someone who is enough to eat a huge sandwich, and the sandwich also has some local names such as a grinder, potato, wedge sandwich, especially in Philadelphia and New Jersey, Hodge.
Back in the 1930 s, a version of the Italian beef sandwich appeared in Chicago, a hero made of beef slices and juice topped with bell peppers.
In New England, it may be called a submarine or submarine, the name created by the grocer benidato capardo in honor of his connection to the checgaroton submarine base, which owns the storeIn 1965, a 17-year-
Fred DeLuca, a high school graduate based in Bridgeport, Connecticut, tries to figure out how he will pay for college with a summer job that only costs $1. 25 an hour.
At the backyard barbecue that summer, a famous friend
Peter Barker advised him to open a submarine sandwich shop and wrote a $1,000 investment check.
The first store developed into a Metro sandvic store, with 16 stores in the state opening by 1974.
Thirty years later, the franchise chain has more than 30,000 stores in 92 countries.
Excerpt from how John F. Italian cuisine conquered the worldMariani.
John F. Copyright 2011Mariani.
Copyright 2011 is copyrighted by the author and reproduced with the permission of Palgrave Macmillan, a subsidiary of Macmillan Publishers Ltd.