Haute Cuisine, At Its Very Highest - most beautiful restaurant dishes

In Paris in the spring of 1997.
The smell of violet and chocolate is in the air.
Every tree is blooming.
"Venez, goutez," cried the fruit vendor as you walked past their booth with a few fragrant red strawberries in your hand.
Early in the morning, the sidewalk was blocked by men in boots carrying bushels full of oysters and clams through the open-air doors of abandoned restaurants.
At 10, the shellfish returned to the outside, and it was tempting to spread over large amounts of seaweed --
The scattered ice attracts people from the past.
As the children passed, they reached out to catch the ice.
In Laduree, this is a beautiful tea room that has been famous for macarons since its late days
19 th century, black
The waitress at the skirting set up a silver coffee pot on the marble-
Board the table and seduce customers with delicious nuts
Croissants.
The smart little shop sells Vietnamese snacks that give you the power to go from meal to meal, people stroll through the sun, lick Berlin ice cream and are now everywhere in town.
I like to eat in Paris. I always have.
I admit that a recent survey by the French government worried me.
The French eat more like Americans.
The amount of wine drinking is declining, the amount of yogurt drinking is rising, and everyone is worried about weight.
Still, Paris still seems to be passionate about food.
Everyone you meet has where you have to try.
"Have you been there? . . ?
They asked for details of each meal.
There is a new cheese shop on Sevres Street and a very cheap restored bouillon on Balzac Street.
When it comes to a restaurant, friends will definitely know a better one.
I did not find any evidence in the advertisement about the decline of advanced cooking being boasted.
My task is to check out the latest stars of the Michelin dome, Alain Dukas restaurant and Pierre gagner restaurant and compare them to the gold standard of the three stars
Taillevent is a star restaurant in Paris.
Because it became very expensive to eat in a big restaurant, I also wanted to see some smaller new restaurants, hope to find at least a place where you can have a good meal without spending a lot of money.
Probably the weather.
Maybe the stars.
Maybe I'm just lucky.
But in a week of serious eating, I had some of the most exciting meals of my life.
Every time is an extraordinary experience;
These are highlights.
Pierre Gagner is a wizard's restaurant in St. Paris. -
Etienne won three Michelin stars, but his position went bankrupt.
He closed the restaurant last year, gave up his star and moved to the right bank of Paris.
At the beginning of the dinner, a tall and handsome lady said, "I am Mrs. Gagnaire.
Let me know if there is anything I can do to make your meal more comfortable.
Chantal Gagnaire is dressed in a trendy black suit with fake pearls around her neck, as cool and elegant as the modern restaurant she runs.
The great French restaurant gives you such a strong feeling about the chef's character that a meal becomes an intimate occasion, a communication between the chef and the customer.
I am often struck by the power of the chef's personality, but rarely as strong as I am here. Mr.
Gagnaire seems to want to surprise his guests by offering them three types of bread and four types of entertainment --gueules.
With these free pre-
Snacks, you find his passion for sweet and sour (
Cook salmon on chutney's bed with chard dishes on It)
His interest in Asia
A frozen cream of chicken and broccoli, like a Japanese dish
His fascination with the vegetable kingdom.
He cooked the fat with sweet wine and made radish with Corsica Cup and prunes.
The food is very complicated, but Sir.
Gagnaire is a technical wizard who likes to walk the tightrope, and no small chef can do it. Mr.
Gagnaire's passion for exotic ingredients makes eating in his restaurant as exciting as a treasure hunt, and everyone joins the adventure in high spirits.
Our captain was asked to identify an unusual vegetable that disappeared into the kitchen.
When he came back, he said proudly, "This is the garlic of the bear . ".
Advertising this food is very challenging and you may not want to eat it several times a year at Gagnaire.
But a meal here is very beneficial if you give up the experience.
If I close my eyes, I can still taste the roast duck topped with lime and served with balsam pear.
The skin has been replaced by the Moroccan pastry warka layer, but when you take a bite, the skin itself is embedded in the sheets that are crackling in the crack.
The duck is bathed in a reduced sweet wine, which is very special.
The veal is dotted with tomato jam, surrounded by squid and cakes made by itself --
Sweet Bread
Edible toothpicks and small chocolates appeared before the dessert, followed by an amazing candy parade.
I haven't tasted anything before. everything is delicious.
Thyme from little tatte is awesome, dry grapefruit is great with coconut.
But what I still dream of is the Romilo egg souffle, so light, so hot, so bittersweet.
No wonder Michelin has restored two of them.
Gagnaire is a star.
Pierre gagner, 6 Balzac Streettelephone (011)33-1-44-35-18-25.
I think, "keep the standard after all the fireworks", "taillevent will be steady and disappointing.
"I was wrong!
The charm of Taillevent is that it is perfect and not boring, luxurious and not sultry.
Arriving early, I sat in the former town house of the Duke of Moni, full of spirit.
A waiter served a plate of hot cheese gougeres and drinks.
I sit in my seat and thank you for the quiet care and watch the host Jean-
Claude winner made the smallest gesture, pointed both hands down, and immediately summoned a waiter to him. Mr.
Vrinat has an orderly mind;
He considered every detail.
The rooms are beautifully arranged, and the large and comfortable banquet is separated by a floating partition, providing privacy and disappearing at the end of the meal.
Are you ready to order?
Asked our captain.
When I asked to study the menu for a few more minutes, he replied, "I'll be back in three minutes.
He came back and checked his watch.
He said: "I apologize, actually four people.
"It was done with a little flicker, and that attitude said," Let's pretend for hours, this is your house, we are your staff.
"The perfect asparagus is cooked with truffle juice, which brings out the natural nut properties of the vegetables.
After eating the stem, I felt like I had never tasted the asparagus.
The oysters trembled in the foamy fennel sauce, and the water was so light that each oyster was like a delicate gray orchid.
A green salad with a truffle sauce.
The advertising menu provides solid French standards such as the pot au feu in the copper pan, which is sealed with a dough on top.
When the shell is broken and the top is removed, the aromatic steam hisses.
A pigeon pie is rich, dark, strong and intense.
Duck chest has less blood and yellow fat ring;
Then cook the legs until the meat falls off the bone.
This is a classic cooking and it is beautifully done.
But there is also imagination in this kitchen.
Taillevent's boudin de homard is a fat seafood sausage that sets the standard for the dish.
Surprisingly, the aura of the orange sauce surprised the sausage. A rust-
The color mousse of sea urchins is very good, mainly to taste the sea.
Bright orange sea urchins are scattered on the top, and these flavors together become an edible sea view, an artist's impression of the coast.
After eating the second bite, I caught the gentleman.
Look at me, Vrinat.
I smiled at him. He smiled back.
It suddenly occurred to me that this dish, like a restaurant, is an amazing fusion of old and new dishes.
"You must have a desert," Our captain insisted . "
We chose the famous marquise au chocolat, a row of pure chocolate floating in the pistachio Lake.
Of course, this is irresistible.
Taillevent, 15 Lamennais Street; (011)33-1-44-95-15-01.
As we all know, in last August, Alan Dukas took over the restaurant that once lived in Joel Robertson, hoping to add three more Michelin stars he has won in the Monte Carlo restaurant Le Louis XV. Mr.
Dukas flew from one restaurant to another, noting that the job of a great chef was to set direction for the restaurant, not for the stove. When Mr.
This round was resumed by Robertson. of-the-
He created the most beautiful restaurant in the world. Mr.
Dukas improved its small details.
He created a comfortable bar downstairs to make the entrance more friendly, and he put Folon's little humor sculpture on each table, gently softening the form of the restaurant.
The effect is to make you more aware than ever.
Nice room.
Everything we eat and drink is a pleasure.
The sommelier said, "I'll get you to find something really good," he offers an impressive 1986 Cote de Beaune from Tollot --Beaut.
I like the wine.
There are two kinds of butter, salt and sweet, on the table.
A spring salad made of crack's stuffed lettuce heart, wild asparagus, Lamb's horn, little fav beans and radish is stirred with a truffle dressing.
The lard paysan in boiled pork belly is fantastic, with crispy crust, Caramel potatoes and a small, fragrant herbal salad.
Asparagus in truffles
Rose sauce with fragrance, very big (
Should also be $12 per person); I had five.
The endive jam for salmon is perfect, surrounded by potatoes and Morchella.
Every perfect cheese is ripe.
There's even a coffee menu.
Each cup has special chocolate and sweet moments: Homemade marshmallow.
The service here is very good. The sommelier's service is no better.
It's all great, but I'm not completely happy.
When I sipped my last glass of wine, I thought that perfection was won at a certain price: I felt like I was in a computer-run restaurant.
From the decor to the menu, there is not one thing that gives a glimpse of the person who gave the name to the restaurant. Mr. advertising
Luo baxiong is not a person who chats with customers in the restaurant.
But when it's his restaurant, you feel like he's talking to you every time you raise your fork.
Michelin inspectors awarded three stars to the restaurant Alain Dukas and took one from Le Louis XV.
I think they made a mistake.
Restaurant Alain Dukas, 59 Raymond pangcalais Avenue; (011)33-1-47-27-12-27.
One reason to visit ParisLe Violon d'Ingres is a regular restaurant that opened in January and I didn't fall in love with it for the first few minutes.
I know that chef and boss Christian Constant has won two chefs at Les Ambassadeurs at the Crillon hotel, but I am not impressed.
Chefs who are used to financial safety and big staff in established restaurants tend to behave very badly when they go on strike alone.
As I twisted my body to the party of the flowers, I noticed that the restaurant was small, a little claustrophobic, and the walls were covered with picky paintings.
The menu is also small;
The price is reasonably reasonable. A four-
Dinner, including taxes and services, was $50, less expensive than we would have bought a plate of asparagus at Alan Dukas;
I doubt it.
Then I heard the woman at the table next door asking if she could have a plain green salad.
"Of course," said the waiter.
Her partner said he wanted one too.
A few minutes later, two completely different salads appeared.
He got rid of the shackles of cooking in one of Paris's most luxurious restaurants.
Constant was obviously happy.
His food is interesting and rich at the moment.
My favorite dish was a delicate sea bass wrapped in a small bun with almonds topped and placed on a sweet bed of spinach surrounded by a group of diners, and a blank
Sashimi on a delicious pudding with meat sauce and cream, dotted with artichokes and some baby herbs: parsley, dill, Taragon, Cherville.
Many of these dishes are similar to premium dishes.
Keep serving at Crillon restaurant, but the best is very simple scallops, baked in shells with vanilla butter only.
I think, "That's why I came to France.
The dessert menu has the best rhubarb pie I 've ever had and strawberry ice.
There is also a sable fish with real strawberries in it.
The real one: the deep red one is very satisfactory. Mr. advertising
Constant walked through the restaurant happily and accepted the honor.
Obviously, his fans followed him.
"Come back," he said, as if it were his home.
Artist Ingres is a successful painter who has such a passion for music that his violin has become a metaphor for French passion. Mr.
Constant may run this restaurant for the pure pleasure of work, but these prices will definitely rise.
Le Violon d'Ingres, 135 St StreetDominique; (011)33-1-45-55-15-05.
The price and quality of boutique dining are not necessarily linked in Paris.
Located at 16 Royal Street, near the Madran, Laduree is a good example.
In the tea room, the best croissant in town cost only $1.
30. at yesterday's exchange rate ($1.
When they are filled with a delicious mixture of almonds, hazelnuts and walnuts).
Creme cafe with two silver cans (
One cup of coffee, another cup of hot milk), costs $4. 15.
Many cafes frequented by tourists charge more. But three-
The star restaurant is very expensive.
When you open the menu for the first time, it's easy to breathe while looking at appetizers that usually cost $50.
If you order at Alain Dukas, it's easy to spend $175 for dinner, including taxes and services, but not wine. Order the prix-
The price dropped to $90.
If there is no wine, it will cost about $105 for a la carte lunch at Taillevent.
However, when the bill is paid at the end of the 4 th at Pierre gagner
For an hour's dinner, I realized it would cost $130 a person, including everything.
Five of us ordered all the most expensive dishes (
Including $81 truffle potatoes
But we don't drink much.
Given the quality of the food and service, I was wondering if we could have a similar meal in New York at the same price.
Advanced Food for Labor-
Very expensive products are needed.
Unlike American restaurants, great French restaurants do not turn around;
You are welcome to enjoy your meal throughout the evening.
When you calculate these 20.
6% of the price is tax and another 15% is tip, it's easy to understand why so many French chefs are worried about the future.
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A version of this article appears on page C00001, country edition, May 14, 1997, with the title: advanced cooking, highest.