FARE OF THE COUNTRY; Spain's Savory Suckling Pig - native dishes from restaurants in murcia spain

Written by ann pringle harrisochl 1990, this is a digital version of an article from The Times Print Archive, before it starts online in 1996.
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When tangjike and Sancho Panza held their wedding banquet in the country of Castile, the first thing they saw was a huge turn on the spit, it was stuffed with delicious taste.
Roast suckling pig today-
Asado-kochinello
The role played in the Spanish cuisine of Castile is as prominent as the Cervantes era, but does not support the turn;
It is a star attraction in itself.
The land and season determine what you eat in Spain, as it has been for centuries.
On the wet, green pasture in Galicia you look forward to and find the beef;
There will be shellfish on the east and west coasts.
In central Castile, the dry plateau almost turns purple in the light projected by the guadalama mountains, and you know from the look of the field that this is not a grazing country.
Here and there you can see the sheep, but there is no herd like in the northwest.
Pigs are a natural livestock option for the region, and slaughtering young animals, lambs, goats and pigs is economically relevant.
The Spanish-defined suckling pig is exclusively breast-fed and has never been allowed to run freely, less than a month old.
Sows feed rye, oats, cabbage and potatoes when sucking their young children.
You can find the displayed piglets at the butcher's, the stalls at the local market, and-occasionally -
There is cochinillo in the window of the restaurant.
The skin of the pig looks white and has wax.
At first you think it's wax, but after careful examination, you will find tiny beads of moisture, which is a fresh sign.
Americans tend to think of the roast pig as a whole, baked on a spit, with an apple in their mouth.
However, in Spain, the pig baby is traditionally butter and then baked on the open-air pottery, and if an apple is to be put into the mouth, it must be the smallest of the crab apples, because the pig, it is only qualified to become a mammal, and the weight should not exceed 3 kilograms (6 to 7 pounds).
Cochinillo asado can be found in Segovia, Avila and Arevalo-
These three towns are less than 50 to 75 miles from Madrid.
So are many restaurants in Madrid.
Advertising diners should treat this dish without prejudice based on typical American roast pork.
In contrast, roast duck is more suitable.
Although cochinillo does not taste like duckling, it has a similar texture, is wet but chewy, has underdeveloped muscles, but is not tender to a soft level;
Remember, it has little time to gain weight.
Purists tell the story of cochinillo crashing when touched by the edge of the plate, but neither the restaurant my husband and I visited staged the show, in fact, the resistance to al dente is a bit suitable for the slightly smoked flavor of the meat, garlic and, usually, thyme.
Advertising has a layer of fat under the skin, just like duckling, a test of preparation skills is to check the underside of the skin.
It should be brown, as hard as parchment outside, but by slow cooking for a long time, potential fat should be eliminated, or at least minimized.
Cochinillo of Madrid Botins meets this standard.
In Hemingway's "The sun rises as usual", Jack Barnes took Brett Ashley to the boating restaurant, which he said was one of the best restaurants in the world.
This is, of course, the most enjoyable.
Madriloos was late for dinner, but at 9: 45 on Friday night, Botin had lined up to wait for the table.
The foreman of the court and the grave explained that the waiting time was 30 to 35 minutes, and it was within this range.
As the table appears, people are taken to the bench on a regular basis and the menu is provided for research.
While waiting, they can look into the busy scene: set up a bottle of wine on grain, lime
Service Bar;
On the other side of the little waiting room is preparing appetizers, Red
Wall panel, cream-
Painted arches, ceilings and old ones
The style of the mirror cabinet;
Diners descend from curved stairs to the dining area downstairs.
Spanish tiles and lace artwork in blue and gold-
The edge niche is decorated with a restaurant on the main floor, and in the middle of the meal, musicians wearing bodice and hoses may walk into the restaurant and sing serenades for diners, accompanied by guitars and pipe bands, A Renaissance instrument similar to mandolin.
The Cochinillo of Botin's is crispy outside and tender inside, with the smell of roasted garlic inside.
Its taste implies the evergreen oak tree used to ignite the oven (
Ash and pine trees are other wood that may be used in pottery ovens).
Baked potatoes are a classic side dish and the wine recommended by the waiter is Valdepenas red from La Mancha, which is a great choice.
Walking down Botin's Street in El Cuchi, you enter a different world.
The concept here is Restaurantas-theater.
There was a bullfight scene on the wall, but a closer look found that the Bulls were well controlled in most scenes. Fresh-
During training, run around like a runner to face the waiter, and occasionally make a wonderful pass with a tablecloth.
A young woman in a peasant dress poured tequila from the canteen tied to her shoulder, and the background music sounded like foreground music, playing Mexican songs at the age of 40 or earlier.
In fact, El Cuchi is a chain of Mexican restaurants (
"There are two hundred people in Mexico and one in Madrid," said a waiter . ")
But Madrid's young squad seems to be friendly to its disrespectful new squad.
The world's mystique attitude towards Bullring and Old Castile.
Botin Renaissance musicians are likely to be on the 20 th.
Century beer stands out at its joyous bar at the entrance as a sign that says, "Hemingway never eats here.
El Cuchi is free to cook Castilian.
Roast suckling pig pieces are placed in a casserole with potatoes and peppers;
Not your classic cochinillo.
Address of Kuchi
3 Calle de couchlos or machete street-
Can explain its name.
On the other hand, a sign with a score "one-
Half printed above may also be seen as a spoof of Michelin's coveted knife --and-
Fork rating, cuchillo is a knife in Spanish.
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There are also informal ones, but more of them are old Spanish-style, right next to the Plaza Mayor of Madrid, Los Galayos.
Carved oak paneling, white garlic ropes, Ham hanging behind a charming tile bar to dry, and brightly colored home curtains evoke the 19 th of the restaurantcentury past;
But the real heart of Los galayos is its big brick stove, suckling pig, lamb and cabbage --baby goat -
Bake slowly on firewood.
Owner Esteban González Moreno is a specialty in his hometown of Avila.
The advertisement for kochiñello, this split salty pig is placed on an oval round wooden rack with a few inches of water on it
The shape of clay baking tray.
During the cooking process, chef Juan Batara pulled out the plate from time to time with a long metal fork, seasoned the pig with melted lard and cooking juice, and garlic has been added.
Diners at Los Galayos can start with garlic soup, which is also a feature of Castile, followed by cochinillo (
Fried potatoes here.
End with Yemeni
Sweet cake made of egg yolk, dessert from avirat.
Avila itself is called the Holy.
Teresa is about 70 miles northwest of Madrid.
It is surrounded by primitive fortifications, in good condition, and has a huge Romanesque church and a cathedral built for centuries, both Romanesque and Gothic.
On the Cathedral Square is the former vallarbanos Palace, which has been cleverly transformed into a hotel that provides modern comfort while maintaining the atmosphere of a noble residence.
Within walking distance of Cathedral Square, you can get to mayndla stráro and enjoy kochillo Avila style food.
In the style of Madrid, it seems to be similar to cochinillo, although the outside may be more salty and hard-skinned;
The menu is toston, which means barbecue.
Diners enter El latero through a stone-
Paved Courtyard to reception room with work fireplace-
A cold night, a popular place.
This big restaurant also has a fireplace and a pair of antlers on the wall, which has a feeling of hunting lodge.
Segovia is a beautiful walled city located above the surrounding plains, which claims that kochiñello is a local dish.
There are several restaurants in the city that offer this service, but the most classic is Meson de Candido.
From the restaurant upstairs, you can see that the walls of the city are illuminated at night, and the ceiling and walls are covered with engraved photos from satisfied customers. See the beautiful Roman plumbing of Segovia and still work properly.
Cochinillo mesons de Candido is prepared, but it introduces itself.
Most diners will want to order potatoes and vegetables or salads, because although the suckling pig is full, it is the best when set against other foods of taste and texture.
Diners who are not satisfied with all this can continue to taste one of the dessert specialties of Meson de Candido, which is roughly equivalent to the Alaska we bake.
Families of roast suckling pigs are prepared to have a wide variety of recipes, some require the addition of white wine in the juice in the pan, and others require the addition of sausage stuffing.
However, there are very few home kitchens that can provide the real basic ingredients of cochinillo asado that Spanish chefs think: old-style, wood-
Discover the firing brick oven in Castile's classic restaurant.
Where can I find the specialty of roast suckling pig in the restaurant listed below (
Asado (or Toston).
People in Madrid are near the mayor's square, in the old town of the city.
The price is $1, 107 pesetas, and as an appetizer, the main course is corchinello, a vegetable or salad, and the dessert is for one person.
Botin, month Cuchilleros, Madrid
Telephone 266 42 17); about $30.
Los galayos, 5 Bolton Las Madrid (266 30 28); about $34.
El Cuchi, month Cuchilleros, Madrid266 44 24); about $34.
Advertising at del la strás Plaza, Avila del la strás (21 12 18); about $26.
Mayn de candedo, Azoguejo, 5 square, Segovia (42 59 11); about $30. -A. P. H.
Ann pringle harris, who teaches English at the New York Institute of Fashion Technology, often writes articles about European cooking.
A version of this article was printed on page 5005006 of the National edition on April 1, 1990 with the title: National fare;
Delicious suckling pig from Spain.