Eating Well; Meals Fit for a Skinny King - low fat thai restaurant dishes

MARIAN burrosaprill 12,1995 this is a digital version of an article from The Times Print Archive, before its online publication began in 1996.
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The people who visit the best restaurants in New York City are always looking forward to delicious, extravagant food.
But now, there is an additional demand from many people: Low fat.
Dozens of chefs were challenged.
In the past five or six years, many people have removed the cream and most of the butter and replaced it with vegetables.
Thick broth, fruit puree, wine, Asian spices and herbs.
To find out how well the chefs have done in making such healthy food, we started our exploration of 10 excellent low-cost foods
Fat meal in the city's top restaurants.
Search is easier and more difficult than expected.
In the end, 11 restaurants were cut.
Many delicious dishes are low-fat.
But an amazing number is only disguised as low fat.
They were dissected as impostors.
At the beginning of the exploration, about 30 restaurants were listed that were considered the best in New York.
Their chef was asked if they offered low
Fat dishes: those dishes with low fat content in essence, which are the main ingredients, add no more than one tablespoon of fat during cooking.
In the conversation with the chef, it was easy to eliminate 10 restaurants.
For example, Daniel Brud at Daniel's restaurant is very clear that there is no such thing on his dinner menu.
He asked loudly, "Is it true what the chefs tell you?
The chefs told me that they were dumping a lot of fat into the food. "Mr.
What could Boulud be doing?
The 20 chefs said the dishes they made were qualified, but given that some of the food was sparkling, there was no need to really taste them: the fat was visible there.
But other dishes can and do fool people who usually know the difference between high fat and low fat.
The amount of fat added is not always obvious.
The recipes gave them away.
Maybe the chef doesn't know how much fat they add at all.
They rarely use recipes and do not use spoons.
Ask the chef for a proportional recipe and sigh is heard.
What is really important is taste.
In the best restaurants, those who want to eat well but have low fat should be prepared to eat fish.
For peeled chicken breast, pork tenderloin or lamb leg, it is rarely done, which is also easy to do at lowfat cooking.
Finally, the best dishes are in Bouley, Vong, Le Bernardin, Lespinasse, Nobu, Montrachet, Gotham Bar and Grill, Matthew's, cascabJean-
Georges Vongerichten, who hosts Vong and Jo, is one of the first chefs to be good at losing weight and improving flavor.
Eight years ago, as a chef at the Drake Hotel Lafayette restaurant, he said, he had to do something to save his career.
"In the 1986 ad all the Italian restaurants were packed and at Lafayette we didn't do much business," he said . ".
"So I decided to do something about my cooking.
I'm not ready to make pasta yet, so I have to change my style.
I started with seasoning oil, vegetable soup, sauce, raw vegetable juice.
A few months later, we changed from 20 lunches to 120. "Mr.
Vongerichten's cooking in Jo reflects this style;
At Vong, he combines Thai flavor with French craftsmanship. The low-
Fat shoppers at Vong should try spicy grilled squid with cucumber and peanut flavor, or wok fish
Fried cabbage with chili and coriander.
"That's how I like to eat," he said . "
"I'm from Alsace and I gained a lot of weight when I went there. I feel stuffed.
"In Spain, Eric Ripert, chef at Le Bernardin, rarely saw butter or cream as a child.
"We don't cook with butter and cream," he said . "
His roasted chestnut with vegetable and light dish broth with basil
Garlic, lively and light.
The first dish is a thin black bass sheet that is active with basil and coriander.
A wonderful speech came from the imagination of grequitz in Les Pinas.
A plate of seafood is like a sweet picture.
Better yet, salmon.
A pink shrimp Pan, a soup full of Asian flavors, and a main course.
Kunz is considered an elegant casserole with mung bean cakes on it, full of Indian flavor.
David Bouley put the same effort into honing his skills as an innovatorfat, high-
In all his culinary efforts, the flavor field.
He is building a test kitchen in his restaurant Bouley, not just to try out new techniques, but to analyze the nutrients of the dishes.
"I don't want people coming in and telling us to put the sauce aside," he said . "
Bouley, who served Maine's surprisingly sweet scallops and crab meat in the herb broth, as well as a rich chicken with cloakworm mushrooms, wilted wild dandelion and sweet pea leaves.
The simple, clean and strong taste attracted him.
"I can't taste anything if I eat cream and butter," he said . ". Mr.
Bouley speaks for many young chefs.
The Alfred Portale at the Gotham Bar and Grill, like many other chefs, exercises three or four times a week and he also makes 11-
Best single smoked duck breast with deep taste (without skin)
Red apper fish and Manila clams.
He said he had developed intolerance to fat.
"My taste has changed," he said ".
"Now, if I had a burger, it would have made my stomach uncomfortable.
There are a few main courses and appetizers made without butter.
"Many diners turn to Italian restaurants looking for foods with low fat content, and recently they have been looking for Mark strousman, chef and owner of Campagna.
"People always come here and say, 'I am on a diet.
Can you do something for me? ' " Mr. Strausman said. "The Monday-to-Thursday-night crowd --
People who go out to eat five or six times a week--
People pay more attention to health than on weekends.
15 to 16 orders a night, including steamed black bass with tomatoes, scallions, basil and lemon.
It is not the same as the small steak on Saturday night, but it has its own steak.
The meat-baked portobello mushrooms are sold out every night.
"At Coco Pazzo, another Italian champion, the vegetables antipasti and cod with rosemary, rat sage, tomatoes, capers and olives are skillfully seasoned, fully
Wine body dishes that are satisfied without a lot of oil.
Chef Cesare Casella said: "People say, 'Please don't oil. '.
"I have been listening for a year and a half since I came here.
"Neither Matthew nor cascabel is a special person --
The Occasion restaurant and nearby customers are particularly eager to eat healthy food.
"People come here a few times a week," says Tom Valenti, chef at Cascabel . ".
"You can't beat them on your head.
You want to provide this flavor, but you don't want them to think, 'I can't do it anymore.
'At his low
The standard-compliant fat dish is a beautifully cooked squid salad made of red wine, apple cider vinegar, bay leaves and tomatoes, and a subtle grilled large hali fish is added to the rich tomato broth
Matthew Kenny, chef and boss of Matthew, once on the Pritikin diet, said he liked to eat what he was cooking.
He has a rich menu.
Taste iced pea soup with rosemary and fennel, rich in flavor and without cream. The oven-
Grilled Bass with grilled eggplant, cucumber, yogurt, hazelnut.
"I have very few people telling me whether the food tastes healthy or light," he said . ".
"This is a nearby place where people come more than once a week.
Because the food will not make them feel uncomfortable.
"Another extreme of advertising is to bring to Nieporent.
He didn't talk about what he said, but he spoke very successfully.
His restaurant Nobu and Montrachet are on the list.
Montrachet offers a delicious spiced grilled sashimi tuna with tomato and Ginger hot pot and a Provence vegetable and spicy sauce that is perfectly cooked.
The Nobu food is amazing. There are French cuisine here.
The sensibility of Japan, including many dishes that fit the personal image: an appetizer with a spicy lemon dressing and a main course called tiradito, fresh and spicy fluke juice lemon and Panka pepper
"Eat whatever you eat"Nieporent said.
"As a person close to 290 pounds, I think I lost weight and ate fat.
Generally speaking, people who eat outside do not want to be stuffed into their stomachs.
Personally, it's better to infect me as soon as possible, or I'll go the James Beard way. "Exquisite.
Where is the fat?
These New York City restaurants offer some of the best low priced restaurants
Fat plates around.
165 Duane Street (Hudson Street); (212)608-3852.
24 East 21 Street(212)460-0900.
218 Lafayette Street (CASCABEL)Spring Street); (212)431-7300.
Coco pazzo, 23 East 74 Street; (212)794-0205.
GOTHAM Bar & Grill, 12 East 12 Street; (212)620-4020.
Le Bernadine Hotel, 155 West 51 Street; (212)489-1515. LESPINASSE St.
St. Regis, No. 2 East 55 Street; (212)339-6719.
1030 Third Avenue (61st Street); (212)838-4343.
239 West BroadwayWhite Street); (212)219-2777.
105 Hudson Street (Franklin Street); (212)219-0500.
No. 200, VONG, East 54 Street; (212)486-9592.
A version of the article was printed on page C00001 of the National edition on April 12, 1995, with the title: eat well;
A meal suitable for thin Kings.