At first Enrique Olvera did not know how to make killer moles, which was better than the traditional moles he grew up.
So, in Pujol, a high-end restaurant in Mexico City, for about a decade, he didn't entertain the mole at all.
Because, why bother?
When Ovila finally made a mole black with Oaxacan peppers, Burnt tomatoes and many other carefully assembled things, he was very sure about the taste of the sauce, so he has nothing but a tortillas in his friend.
This is where it gets better: he keeps the leftovers, supplements and heats the masses every day, makes the sauce age like a sour dough appetizer, changes and deepens the taste every day.
At the age of one, he made a sauce in Pujol and had a small pool in the center of a larger fresh mole pool.
This means that after tasting the young part rich in chocolate and nuts, you can disappear in the worm hole in the middle of the plate and run forward for hundreds of days, taste the older, smarter mole that it may become.
Olvera's work is smart and elegant, and over the years he has received a lot of attention for his interpretation and expansion of Mexican traditions.
He also opened other restaurants in Mexico, including a chain cafe and a restaurant on the coast of the Yucatan Peninsula.
When I read his paper on the mole
In last January, it was rumored that the chef would open a restaurant far from home in New York City.
At the end of last year, Cosme was up and running in Flatiron, with no grizzly mole or ant larvae, and no other more esoteric ingredients Olvera used in Pujol.
This may explain why it has been booked every night since it opened: It's easy to enjoy.
This is served with delicate duck until the meat is smooth and tender and the skin is sweet.
The waiter said it would be crispy, but that's not the case, but when we wiped the tortillas with the hot fat at the bottom of the cast iron pan, the turnips and cilantro creaked and it didn't seem worth complaining.
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There is no taqueria here, but there are also beef tacos on the menu.
Apart from them, they are not at all like tortillas, more like a few carefully cooked steaks with chili peppers and a lot of spicy avocado puree, arranged in an abstract way on a huge white plate. The tortillas—
Compact, light and flexible
Stand on the side and wrap it in thick cloth so that they will remain warm and soft even if you are loading the last piece.
Looks casual.
A large crisp, well-dressed chicharron;
A bunch of cold-blooded green mouths in mayonnaise
But there are a lot of tricks in this kitchen that almost always apply to things that are really important, like beans, avocado, and corn.
You may never have seen the delicate delivery of beans like Olvera's enfrijolada
This is a delicate tortillas and a hoja santa sandwich (an anise-y herb)
Stacked on smooth, light, luxurious bean paste.
It has a little starch, beans-
The most comfortable, traditional version, but with more constraints and elegant immersion textures.
Maybe you will take it slowly and treat it more carefully because it is so beautiful.
Olvera is a bit like a chef and every time I go there is a chef at home and drool
The boneless duck and the sticky raw, almost unsmoked dark brown, and a little salsa.
A stupid chef from the field was drinking. he shouted to the people next to him. he was "a very close friend with René redzby ", madison Park 11 is not everything.
There are other kinds of gossip and gossip. it's hard for me to hear the noise --
The restaurant will be loud when it is full.
Finally, he leaned down and sprayed hot sauce on a stranger's corn roll.
"Believe me, man," he said. #lazy-img-
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The room is divided into two parts (
Although the actual partition at the opening of the restaurant has been removed)
: A Bar mixed with high tables and low tables, and a slightly more formal dining area.
The diners at the back seem to be drinking tequila at a slower pace, and still maintain a little dignity, which may or may not be a good thing.
There is a tension between food and space: even if it is packed at night, it becomes monotonous and gloomy because of its poor light.
The added dark walls and original black ceilings make the whole environment feel a bit like the backstage of the community theater.
Customers are also much older than you think, as this is one of the most exciting restaurants in the past few months;
This may be the result of the price, which is consistent with the city's most upscale casual restaurants.
Not every dish is very popular.
Pozole contains an elegant, albeit unnecessarily tedious presentation-
The broth is served in a separate cup and poured on the table, which seems to just cool down.
The broth also lacks the enhanced and stable quality of the best version of the meat --and-
Homemade stew, even if the taste is a little light, is very strong, very soul.
It comes with almost no juice of lime.
You'll find them on the menu, but maybe forget about margar Tower wine and avocado sauce.
There are a lot of other things to enjoy in Cosme, such as a small fruit-flavored mezcal and a delicious seafood cocktail, placed in the hole of half an avocado.
Whatever you choose, end with corn-
Focus on the dessert, the delicate shell of purple
Hued meringue, provides the right amount of sugar and texture for cream corn puree and non-sweet cream.
It's almost as restrained as the sauce on the plate, but just like a lot of food from Cosme, it's also generous and happy.
Cosme is located at 35 East 21 Street (Flatiron); +1 212 913-
9659 or cosmenyc. com#lazy-img-
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