Chinatowns Find New Venues and New Dishes - metal serving dish at chinese restaurants

By elaine louiefeb.
1988 this is a digital version of an article from The Times Print Archive, before it starts online in 1996.
To keep these articles as they appear initially, the Times will not change, edit, or update them.
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Chinatown is moving: from downtown San Francisco, Los Angeles and New York to suburban and outer areas.
Next is Chinese food, from Cantonese and Sichuan dishes featuring orange beef and shu pork to exquisite dishes in Hong Kong, with a focus on fine seafood.
The migration of people and food began 30 years ago, but it was not until recently that there was momentum.
"While the Chinese started moving out of the slums in the 1950s S, the best restaurants came and expanded in the 1980s S," says Lily Lee Chen, former mayor of Monterey Park, California.
Seven miles east of Los Angeles.
The evolution of Surburban Chinatown is now most evident as these communities are ready to celebrate the new year, the year of the Dragon, which begins next Wednesday.
In the market, candy is wrapped in gold paper, symbolizing money and prosperity.
The chefs are preparing special dishes, such as sweet rice balls with brown sugar flavor, which is said to ensure a happy life.
On the menu printed for the festival, the new name appears gracefully on familiar dishes: a plate of shrimp, scallops and squid is now known as "happy new year to the three old men ", crystal Garden restaurant in Flushing, Queens.
People will perform traditional lion dances or dragon dances, luxury creatures made of paper --
Mache and fabric.
Advertising peter Kwong, professor of political science, Old Westbury State University CollegeI.
The new Chinese community is called satellite Chinatown ".
He said they were built by a middleman.
Chinese people are used as residential rather than commercial centers.
Lady advertisingChen agreed. ''The Chinese-
"Americans who have business in Old Chinatown, but they want to build better families and schools for their children, who moved from Los Angeles to Monterey Park," she said . ".
According to Professor Kwong, the sport in San Francisco is from the downtown area along Grant Avenue to the Richmond area three miles away, to the Peninsula 45 miles south of the city.
In New York, many Chinese moved from Canal Street in Lower Manhattan to Flushing, 15 miles away.
In 10 to 15 years, however, they returned to the ancient Chinatown to eat and shop;
They can live without dust and congestion, but without food.
But by 1970s, restaurant owners began following up on their customers.
Professor Kwong said, "the restaurant in Old Chinatown is saturated and the competition is fierce . "
"Some new restaurant owners from Taiwan and Hong Kong have the money to hire excellent chefs, the management style is radical and can attract rich Chinese and non-ChineseChinese alike.
The boss hired all kinds of chefs.
Some come from Taiwan and make local specialties, such as noodles topped with braised pork chops.
Others trained in Hong Kong made exotic seafood dishes and unusual snacks.
In terms of cooking, the new Chinatown began to compete with the old Chinatown.
Many restaurant owners make them partners to keep the chef content and creative.
"The chef who works as a partner will take better care of the food and the kitchen," says Kenneth Yee . ".
He and several other partners, including two chefs, own the East River restaurant in Flushing.
In order to satisfy the customers, the restaurant owner must provide familiar services in addition to providing exotic atmosphere.
A year ago, when the East Lake restaurant opened in Flushing, it specializes in seafood.
Snacks started yesterday.
Albert Lin, one of the seven partners at the restaurant, simply explained the change: "People asked to do so. They expect it.
"The seats in these new restaurants are 200 to 600, not only for Chinese customers --
Americans and others who live or work in the region, but also the middle class
The Chinese immigrant class, which began arriving in large numbers in 1965, relaxed the quota set by Hart
Celler Act of that year
According to Professor Kwong, there are more than a million Chinese in the United States today, compared with only 236,000 in the 1960 census. A Sociological Study of Chinatown in New York
Hill & Wang, 1987).
According to Rita Boyle, executive director of the Richmond District Community Center, about 30,000 Chinese live in Richmond District, San Francisco.
Her estimate is based on 1985 surveys from 1980 national census.
At Monterey Park near Los Angeles, according to Margo Wheeler, the district's planning administrator, 15,000 of the city's 61,000 residents are Chinese.
According to her figures from the 1980 census.
Flushing China Business Association's estimate of the local Chinese population is a bit informal.
"On December 1986, we counted the names of the Chinese in the local phone book," said Henry Cheng, consultant of the association . ".
In the area surrounded by 14 Avenue, Frances Lewis Avenue, Van Wyck highway and Union Toll Road --
Including all Flushing and parts of the bay and white stone-
The association counted about 60,000 Chinese names.
In 1985, the same group found 31 Chinese restaurants within 20 blocks of the main street.
"There are 37 at 1987," Mr. Cheng said.
The new Chinatown is similar and different from the old one.
Like the old Chinatown,sufficient.
Within their scope, you can find Chinese doctors, lawyers, hair stylists, bakeries, bookstores, markets, banks, photography studios and clothing stores.
The Hoa Binh market in Monterey Park is a 24,000-square-
Even the foot supermarket with its own herb store.
It is this sense of community that attracts immigrants like Jack Lin.
He moved from Taiwan to Flushing six years ago.
Three years later, he opened a fish shop called Flushing seafood.
"I have friends," he said, explaining the Queen's charm . "
"All my customers are Chinese.
Chinatown in Manhattan is dirty and noisy.
Two words-
Dust and noise
Separate the new Chinatown from the old one.
As Professor Kwong said, "The new Chinatown serves the middle class;
Old Chinatown, working class. ''The middle-
First class customers need spacious dining room with parking lot and clean bathroom for Hong Kong
New cuisine.
"Chinese people in Hong Kong have always believed that fresh seafood is more luxurious, diverse and exotic than meat," said Alice Wong, executive manager of the family --
There is a Hong Kong Flower Lounge restaurant in milbray, California.
30 miles south of San Francisco.
The best seafood restaurants in Hong Kong offer 15 kinds of fish, as well as eel, frog, abalone, crab, snail, clam, turtle and snake, she said.
In Hong Kong, her family has six restaurants, and Miss Wang said that the best executive chef pays only for the invention of new dishes every month. as soon as the dishes are introduced, they are copied by other chefs.
Due to this competition, Hong Kong cuisine has become the most elegant and varied Chinese cuisine.
"It's an old kind of meat.
"Traditional Chinese dishes," said Vicki Low, who assisted Miss Wang . ".
"Cooking with crab yellow is new.
"The most found --to-the-
In the United States, many Chinese restaurant owners send chefs to Hong Kong every year.
The chef is paid $2,000 to $3,000 a month and they bring back recipes for dishes that are not only delicious but beautiful.
For example, at the Hong Kong Flower Lounge, chef Philip Lo served fried catfish on a Chinese parsley bed topped with thin scallions wrapped in red pepper strips.
Dim sum, Tony Huang
The chef, wrapped in seaweed and chopped shrimp, looks like sushi.
A large restaurant in Alhambra, California
Near Monterey Park, the chef uses chopped fresh fish, squid, oysters and the neck of the local duck (
Pronounced stickyduck)
A large clam with garlic and lettuce skin and seafood sauce.
In the crystal garden of Flushing, chef Fuk Cheng (Fuk Cheng) sauteed the green leaves of a pea, picked before the pea began to sprout, and placed it with fresh crab meat and crab yellow, A shallow sauce made of protein. (
The same sauce appears on the rich, braised mustard vegetables.
Sheng Restaurant in San Gabriel, California
Near Monterey Park, broccoli is also available at the Hong Kong Flower Lounge in milbray. )
In the new Chinatown, it seems that the chef is only as creative as his last dish.
Fried catfish with red pepper-
Green onions (
Adapted from Hong Kong Flower Lounge restaurant)
Preparation time: 15-20 minutes Cooking time: 10 minutes 48 oz corn or peanut oil 1 1/2-pound catfish (
Alternative to striped bass or flounder fish)
1 red pepper, about 1/2 wide, 8 scallions 4 inch long, white only, cut into 2-
Grow 2 bundles of coriander in inches, Trim the stems and remove 1 teaspoon of sugar 1/2 teaspoon of sesame oil from 4 tablespoons of soy sauce. 1.
In a frying pan or Fryer, heat the oil to 450 degrees. 2.
Butterfly catfish by longitudinal cutting of the abdomen.
Cut the meat off the tail and separate the meat to ensure that the meat is attached to the spine. 3.
Cut the pepper horizontally into 8 laps 1/8 thick, discard the seeds and prepare the decoration.
Put a Onion bar in each chili circle and make four 1/2-
Inches are cut to the end of the scallions, so the end is a feather. 4.
Place coriander on a platter with coriander. 5.
Put the fish in the hot oil, quickly reduce the flame and keep the oil at 250 degrees.
Cook the fish for about 5 to 6 minutes or cook it to gold. 6.
When the fish is finished, turn the flame up so that the oil is 450 degrees and continue to fry for a minute. Advertisement7.
Remove the fish from the pan, drain it on the paper towel and place it on the top of the coriander. 8.
Put a tablespoon of oil just used to cook fish in a separate small pan and add soy sauce, sugar and sesame oil.
Heat until it starts to bubble and then pour the sauce on the fish.
Bundle the fish with scallions and serve.
Output: 4 portions as part of a Chinese meal that includes several dishes.
Crab Roe spinach (
Adapted from Crystal Garden Restaurant)
Preparation time: 10 minutes Cooking time: 10 minutes 5 ounces of water 3 ounces plus 1 tablespoon of corn or peanut oil clip 10 ounces of fresh spinach, wash and trim (
Discard the bottom of the stem 2 inch)
2 teaspoons of fresh ginger juice crush fresh ginger slices with garlic press or mortar, pestle2 tbsp dry sherr3 oz fresh minced crab 4 oz chicken nuggets 1 tbsp corn kernels 1 oz fresh
1 ounce of flying fish can be replaced, or 1/2 ounces of uni can be bought at Japanese food stores, which is sea urchin fish)1 egg white. 1.
Cook 3 ounces of water in a pan. 2.
Add 3 ounces of oil and salt to boil the liquid again. 3.
Add spinach and cook for 2 to 5 minutes until the spinach is finished. (
The oil sparkles the spinach. )4.
Drain the spinach and press it with a spatula or spoon to make it as dry as possible.
Place spinach on a platter. 5.
Pour the remaining tablespoon of oil into the pan with ginger and Sherry to prepare the saucehigh heat.
When the liquid is hot but not boiling, add crab meat and chicken soup, stir quickly and gently break the crab meat to make it stock.
Cook for 30 seconds to a minute. 6.
Mix the corn starch with the remaining 2 ounces of water and add the corn starch and crab yellow to the crab
Mix the meat until the sauce is thick.
Turn off the flame.
Add chicken protein and stir for 3 seconds.
Don't let the protein solidify.
The sauce should shine.
Pour the sauce on the spinach and serve immediately.
Production: 4 copies as part of multiple foods
Chinese food.
Sweet Shrimp with mayonnaise (
Adapted from a large seafood restaurant)
Preparation time: 1 to 3 hours cooking time: 5 minutes in 6 ounces-
Shrimp size, peeled and demelted.
1/2 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon baking powder 2 tbsp mayonnaise2 tbsp concentrate milk1 tbsp crush pineapple juice 1 teaspoon lemon juice 3 cups corn or peanut oil 1 egg yolk 2 tbsp corn 1Advertisement1.
Wash the shrimp clean, dry it with a paper towel and put it in a bowl. 2.
Mix shrimp with salt and baking powder.
Let's sit in the fridge for at least an hour, no more than three hours. 3.
At the same time, mix mayonnaise, milk, pineapple and lemon juice in a bowl.
Cover the fridge and leave it for an hour or until the sauce is hardened. 4.
Wash the shrimp with cold water and tap water for three minutes and clean the baking powder and salt.
Drain and dry with paper towels.
Put the shrimp in a bowl. 5.
Heat the oil up to 400 degrees. 6.
Beat the egg yolk and add it to the shrimp, stir it evenly and apply it with a layer.
Pour out the excess egg yolk.
Now, mix the corn starch into the shrimp. 7.
Fry the shrimp in oil for about 3 minutes or until it turns yellow. 8.
Take out the shrimp and drain the water on the paper towel. 9.
Mix the shrimp with mayonnaise, Sprinkle sesame on it if needed, and serve immediately.
Output: 2 to 4 servings if accompanied by other dishes.
A version of this article appears on page C00001, country edition, February 10, 1988, with the title: Chinatown find new venues and new dishes.