After NYT pans Locol, Jonathan Gold wonders if some restaurants are unreviewable - new york times chinese restaurant review hot dish

If you 've been following the food media last week, you 've probably heard a lot about Pete Wells zero
The New York Times last Wednesday commented on Locol's star, in which he compared Hamburg to what he used to eat at Scout training camp.
The review is about the location of Auckland, not the original restaurants of Watts, but the culinary community in Los Angeles and around the world seems to have personally accepted the review.
Protests usually appear on blogs.
Chef David Chang and Rene Redzepi expressed their discontent on Weibo.
Michael Krikorian, as a gang journalist, has known some of Watts Lokol's employees since his time (
By the way, he's not a long-time boyfriend of Nancy Silverton in Moza)
Wrote an impassioned work.
The editor of this newspaper
Roy Choi, director of the gilts, protest
Created Locol with San Francisco chef Daniel Patterson, posted a red shir in Tupac's "I'm not angry with a priest" video on Instagram, frowning
Wells is no stranger to the controversy-last summer, he split the gourmet world in two with Thomas Keller's work, pan of the Per-but it seems different.
Itself is a restaurant built with a $325 tasting menu.
At Locol, Choi and Patterson are designed to bring fresh, healthy, cheap cooking to a variety of communities sometimes known as the "food desert," and you can feed a dozen people with your own Wagyu supplements.
The problem is not what the difference between Locol's $5 Fried Chicken Burg and the night market song or Auckland's own Bakesale Betty's better $9 fried chicken sandwich is.
That's why the New York Times used its main restaurant column to complain about the light turkey chili at the Oakland burger shop, whose mission is to feed a community that has limited access to delicious nutritious food
Wells is an excellent writer and an irrefutable critic.
If he's talking about grain
The rich burger pie is dry, and the pie is dry.
And give: the original Watt is in a block with almost no substitute;
The Auckland restaurant I haven't been to is located in an upscale neighborhood near the city center.
When Locol's dining area is only a few steps away from taquerias and Umami Burgers, its mission may not be obvious.
The background is important: I'm not sure what I would think of Watts restaurant if it was within the football throw range of a decent beer shop.
But are some restaurants not viewable?
It depends on the critic. (
Have I seen Locol? I have not. )
On a trip to Auckland, Wells may focus on more traditional restaurants such as Camino or Commis, but in some ways Locol is really too important to ignore.
I wrote one.
The page story of Locol's opening in last January.
In the same month's food and wine magazine, Kate Reid wrote: "Locol is the best new restaurant in 2016.
From Rolling Stone to the Wall Street Journal to the daily coffee news, stories from restaurants can be found everywhere.
Currently on the list of 101 Best Restaurants, 58 restaurants ranked number one handmade cooking reminds me of the lunch counter I decorated when I grew up in southern Los Angeles, not anything I bought while driving --thru window.
Here is one of the places I have tried with Guelaguetza and Mariscos Jalisco to bring friends to visit from outside the city.
The prospect of a multi-cultural and delicious Baron, such as Cui's alliance with Michelin
The Modernism starring Patterson is intriguing in the words of gourmets alone.
But while you might imagine involvement from the top
The profile chef brings a smooth product that is closer to casual home cooking, inspired by the neighborhood rather than being imposed on it.
Locol does not serve coffee
Grilled carrots, also not buttermilk snow asparagus that Patterson made when he ran the kitchen in Coi, nor a 21-point corn cake on Kogiand's Chubby Pork Belly Bowl, Choi at him
This food is not so much an experiment of culinary creativity as a stylish, sustainable, less expensive attempt.
The fat and affordable dishes that are already popular here are hamburgers, pizzas, peppers and salads.
The staff of this restaurant are all people who live nearby and few people work in the food service before Locol hires them.
Locol is not a replacement for fast-
Better food restaurant than it, a trendy but tall place
Design the atmosphere, a bowl of rice and green vegetables, the price is a bag of odd.
Cui likes to call Loko a revolution.
"It doesn't matter, 'well meThursday delivers the message.
"But I tell you that if they want to start a revolution, they have to do better than the people who serve in Auckland.
"So should Locol fall into the same category as the family boy bakery or the Venetian bread and Rose Cafe, or should it be criticized for not meeting the standards of Kogi or Coi?
This is a difficult question to answer.
It seems to me that there may be nothing wrong with Wells, but he is not generous.
One day I want to take him with me if he allows. Wells to Watts. 1950 E. 103rd.
San Francisco, Los Angeles. welocol. com.
For RECORD3: month p. m. , Jan.
9: This article refers to the low-
A bowl of rice and green vegetables.
There is no rice for this dish. jonathan. gold@latimes.