After El Bulli, Spain Looks Forward - main dishes in spain restaurants

JULIA el BULLI, currently the most influential restaurant in the world, is hosted by julia moskinjune 14 and will have its last dinner on July 30.
The next morning, the Spanish chefs will realize a world that has changed completely.
Imagine a fleet without a flagship, a solar system without a sun, which is high
In the absence of El Bulli, the Spanish cuisine looks like it will end.
In a generation, it has helped to transform Spain from a culinary stagnant water to a world leader, cocina de vanguardia, Ferran adria (
He and other chefs prefer the word "molecular cuisine)
Become a global obsession with young chefs.
Food as a performing art, transformed by magic and tact, is now seen as an iconic style of modern Spanish restaurants.
When Anthony Gaudi changed the architecture of the country and the film of Pedro almodowar,
Adria redefined its cuisine.
While many chefs have contributed to the food revolution in Spain, especially Juan Marie alzac, Santi Santamaria and andeni Luis aduliz, this is
The bar is rising by Adria himself.
"It's impossible to say too much about his influence," says CamMe lascaleda, a chef in gatellonia who has six Michelin stars under her name, compared to the rest of the world. (
She spoke in Catalan;
Some interviews were conducted through translation. )
"He was the first person to tell the Spanish chef that we could think for ourselves.
"Advertisers from all over the world are now coming to Spain to buy food, which is attracted by the mystery of El Bulli, although only a few hundred people manage to eat there every year.
Many chefs are concerned that the closure of El Bulli will be combined with the economic woes of Europe, resulting in a comprehensive decline in the culinary tourism industry.
The ad "I don't think the situation is very good," says Joseph Rocca, one of the brothers who owns the Can Roca, a destination restaurant in northern Barcelona.
"I'm worried that without El Bulli, a certain amount of energy will disappear in the restaurant scene here.
But amid concerns, chefs are also beginning to realize that a monopoly on international media could eventually be broken.
"El Bulli and Ferran adria have so much food that it goes beyond anything next to it," said Pioneer Quique Dacosta.
Valencia, the avant-garde chef.
In the El Bulli era, millions of euros of private and public funds were used to promote Spanish cuisine.
Rafael Ansong, dean of the Royal Academy of fine dining in Spain, said: "Now other chefs will have more opportunities to take up the space that El Bulli and Ferran adria will leave, "umbrella group for multiple cooking promotion and education programs in the country.
Now El Bulli is going Black (Mr.
Adria says it will operate as a culinary research foundation at least by 2014)
Where will the focus of the world shine in Spain?
Who will become the new darling of the stomachtourists?
Many chefs, including Mr. Dacosta (
Known for his edible landscape)
Joseph Martinez Aria (
Known for the breakthrough work of vegetables)and Ms.
Ruscalleda is a competitor.
A group plans to break through the boundaries of food with new technologies and global ingredients.
Another group is vigorously digging into the roots of Spanish cuisine, and by improving and innovating, they can upgrade the tradition to three. star status.
The Kochina de Vanguard will continue.
It's already at almost every high-
Spanish restaurants, even in regular cafes and snack bars.
In an advertisement at the seaside cafe Si Us Plau, not far from El Bulli in the Mediterranean resort Rose Town, sherry vinegar sprinkled on a plain green salad is painted small and elastic
In the Boqueria market in Barcelona, Quim Márquez duran runs a small lunch counter and blows up the top
The stalls around him are stacked with quality ingredients: eggs, artichokes, small fish and squid.
Today, even his traditional desserts, such
Cinnamon cream frozen
Alternatively, the soft cheese with honey, Mel y mato, foam through the nitrous nitrogen charger.
Not long ago, any ambitious chef in Spain had to go abroad for a culinary education to learn the French cuisine that culinary tourists and rich Spaniards expect in elegant restaurants.
Claudia Rodon, a culinary historian, said: "There is really no premium Spanish cuisine . " He has just published an exhaustive recipe called "Spanish cuisine. ”Ms.
Roden believes that piquillo peppers are a good example of the rise of modern Spanish cooking.
In many parts of the country, red pepper is a traditional dish.
In a luxury restaurant in 1970, this dish was made in European style and covered with Beauchamp beauty and cheese.
In the 1980 s, once a chef like Juan Marie alzac and Pedro sobiana introduced light new French dishes to Spain, the bright red flesh of the pepper occupies the stage. perhaps it is filled with cut vegetables and placed in a pool of washed herbs.
From 1990 to today, chefs focus on ideas and techniques to turn Piquero into a crispy package of ripe bananas;
Or the pepper itself may be bubbling to fill a circle of salt cod and turn over the original plate.
What happens next, Piquillo?
"They can't go further than Ferrand . "
Said Roden firmly.
"This is impossible.
However, young chefs like Mr.
Da Costa is located in Valencia, and its restaurant of the same name is already exploring the new media of food.
He is the creator of the oyster Guggenheim Bilbao, an oyster that is heated on the duzon wood and is covered with an edible titanium film
A silver alloy that reflects the surface of Frank Gaili Museum.
Eating his animated forest should evoke the soil and flora of the Mediterranean woodlands.
The young chef of the nearby Ferrero Hotel, Pacho Morales, took a glass of sparkling, jelly-like tomato water and planted the flowers with local herbs and vegetables on it, in one
Mugaritz's influential chef Andoni Luis Aduriz has created a term to describe the effects of these edible landscapes: the fusion of technical movements, techniques and emotions. (
The word "food" does not mean. )
"It includes looking for inspiration in the scenery, reflecting the taste, aroma and sometimes emotion that this place brings to you," Mr. Dacosta said. Mr.
The chef Alija of the new restaurant Nerua in Guggenheim Bilbao has cured chrysanthemum with quicklime, filled with small tomatoes with green herbs, surrounded by a clear golden broth, which is
He carried a white asparagus spear with a gel of cardamom and orange.
Like the most avant-garde
Spanish chef, he is very fluent in language
Serious arttalk describes his food as "harmony between space, taste, smell and texture, distilled the essence of each product.
"Advertising another group has accepted the serious perfectionism of la cocina vanguardia, but without its exotic flavor, there will occasionally be unsatisfying oddities as well.
Nandu Jubani, Victor aquinzoni and Mali Carmen weisres are the leaders of Las LaceyBack to root)
Use local ingredients and traditional techniques, but be refined to an extraordinary level.
Like in France and Japan, these Spanish chefs are increasingly worshiping at the altar of terroir: tiny aromatic Aranjuez strawberries grown outside Madrid, harvested from Galicia
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They're not.
Cooking Technology (
Although there are still many such people in Spain).
They are practicing the new cocina de products, ingredients-
The raw materials here are the most important, original and easy to identify. Mr.
Arguinzoniz, a chef who is in great contact with the Earth and even makes charcoal himself, has spent decades cooking with fire in the Basque country, and barbecues are almost local religion.
Once a ranger, he was himself.
As a chef, he has developed a number of equipment and methods to grill unlikely ingredients such as caviar, whole egg yolks and little eel.
Every bite in the elegant Asador Etxebarri
Even at dessert.
It's full of fire, but it never gets monotonous.
The salty taste of the roast steak is different from the smoked taste of the goat. milk ice cream;
The ash adds the creaking of sea salt to the smoked butter.
"I don't pretend to break the tradition," he said . "
"I am not a revolutionary.
A day broadened my horizons than a day, which was great.
"In Can Jubany, in the city of Catalonia, Nandu Jubany has accepted this farm --
Restaurant model for growing asparagus, tomatoes, peas, herbs and Italian dishes (
Spanish scallions between scallions and leeks)
Raise cattle, chickens and ducks.
"My eggs are always in perfect shape, in a machine called Chicken, in a series of ball-making processes," he said with a smile, showing off the walled garden outside the restaurant.
His food is very delicate, but full of fun, and traditional dishes are often reimagined, such as roasted whole pea pods and potifarah, soft blood sausage, rice and Mediterranean sea cucumbers.
The taste is clear and concentrated, rarely more than four to one plate.
The roots of Mali Carmen weisres, chef of Alicante La Sirena, extend not only to the land, but also to the Mediterranean: she grew up eating seafood at her parents' fish stalls.
She is known for traditional dishes such as suquets and arroces seasoned with tradition rather than technology: for example, condensed stock, long mud and lotions like alioli, the water glue system supported by egg yolk instead of technologymotion crowd.
A loud noise in the back-to-the-
The land movement was suppressed in February by the death of three popular chef Santamaria of Catalan. Michelin-
Starring Can Fabes in Sant Celoni. Mr.
Santamaria is actually the only Spanish chef to openly challenge Mr. Adrià’s work —
Say it's not healthy and worse in Spain
Ideological discord that has made headlines over the years
According to Coleman Andrews
Adria's biographer, the conflict stems from the Franco regime, when the language and culture of the language were violently suppressed,
Santamaria began cooking at underground political meetings.
Later, he remained committed to maintaining the tradition of Catalunya.
Adria expanded his taste to the world.
AdvertisementXavier Pellicer, both traditional and avant-garde
Garde has full authority and accepted Mr.
Santamaria has taken over the kitchen of Can Fabes.
He is already mixing pots with things like crab meat covered with caramel sugar and black pepper. One chef (
Maybe the only one)
The competition and faction that transcends Spanish chefs is Carme Ruscalleda, a self-taught, self-employed 58-year-old.
She has three Michelin stars at the Sant Pau restaurant on the northern coast of Barcelona.
Her restaurant in Tokyo has two exact copies of the original;
She has one in the restaurant Moments in Barcelona.
Although she is little known outside of Spain, she is respected as a true artist and fierce perfectionist.
"With 70 employees, strict organization is necessary," she said . ".
"I'm much more strict with young people because they have to learn to be" good enough "is not good enough.
She used her ingredients.
To be honest, she grew up working in the vegetable market of her parents in the town where she was born, still lives and cooks.
None of Spain's chefs are more closely related to local farmers and fishermen;
Her sources are the Mediterranean and marrami, one of the oldest, most fertile and most diverse agricultural regions in the country.
Her food is delicate and light, seasonal, and the menu is printed with her small watercolor portrait for each dish. (
"We always tell her that she is really Japanese, even before we open a restaurant there," her son Raul Balan jokingly said . ". )
But like a gorgeous, light Mondrian made of green almonds, red peppers and olives and a large juicy roasted foal (
Horse meat is not uncommon on local menus)
The taste is very strong. Mr.
Balam is a thoughtful and motivated chef.
While in charge of the kitchen, he is eager to perform his own dishes, but also feels that he has a responsibility to maintain a high culinary status for the family and the country.
"You can't relax even with three stars," he said . ".
"You have to pretend to have a fourth star, otherwise there is no place to go other than to drop.
"It remains to be seen whether Spain will fall from the dazzling heights of the El Bulli era, but the food language on the plates and pages has been changed by it.
When asked whether Spain's economic downturn will continue to maintain expensive and experimental cuisine in the future,
Da Kosta's answer is very distinctive: "What is expensive?
What is experiment?
What is the future?
"Where can I find the new chefs mentioned in the accompanying article and where they cook.
The number of calls in Spain is 34.
La Sirena, Petrer, Alicante, 14 Avenida, Madrid;
965 37 17 18, lacerena.
Di Niya, Valencia, 1 Caler Las Barca, neiquick da Kosta;
965 784 179, quichita Costa.
EsAdvertisementVICTOR ARGUINZONIZ, Asador Etxebarri, San Juan Atxondo, the month square, Biscayne;
946, asadoretxebarri 30 42.
ComCARME RUSCALLEDA, Pau, 10 Carles Nau, San Pol, gatelloni, March;
937 60 06 62, ruscalleda.
Connan is located in Barney, and can be located in Barney, kilometers away.
15. Calldetenes of gatelloni County;
Canjubany, 938 89 10 23.
Nicua, Guggenheim Bilbao, 2 abandobarra, Bilbao, Vizcaya;
Nerua 944 430
Hotel Ferrero Conco Morales, CarreraVillena, km.
No. 16, Valencia, gambling;
962 35 51 75, Ferrero.
ComXAVIER PELLICER, Fabes, Moon St. Joan, Sante Celoni, Catalunya,
938 67 28 51, canfabes.
The coma version of this article was printed on page D1 of The New York edition on June 15, 2011, with the title: Spanish expectations.
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