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Mexican Chefs Embrace a Lighter Cuisine of Old - low fat mexican restaurant dishes

by:Two Eight     2020-01-17
Mexican Chefs Embrace a Lighter Cuisine of Old  -  low fat mexican restaurant dishes
Written by florence fabricantmay 1995, this is a digital version of an article from The Times Print Archive, before its online publication began in 1996.
To keep these articles as they appear initially, the Times will not change, edit, or update them.
There are occasional copywriting errors or other problems during the digitization process.
Please send a report of such issues to archid_feedback @ nytimes. com.
In Mexico City, the best restaurants have long served both European and French cuisine, and there are now a dozen elegant places to offer Mexican cuisine.
Not fried, cheese.
Washed food with margar Tower wine.
This popular dish, tortillas, etc. , is most likely to be at the Mexican restaurant table in the United States on Friday to celebrate Cinco de Mayo, a national holiday in Mexico, May 5, to commemorate the defeat of France in the Battle of Puebla in 1862.
But this is not the Mexican cuisine that Mexico City's better restaurants offer. Since the mid-
In 1980s, chefs and restaurant owners (many of them women) reinterpreted traditional, sometimes historic recipes in modern style.
By doing so, they get an appreciation of the audience.
Mexican cooking has been done at home for a long time, but now women are starting to bring cooking to restaurants.
"The chefs in Mexico City are radically changing the tastes and tastes of Mexicans," said Patricia Quintana, a restaurant consultant and recipe author in Mexico City.
"People are learning all the traditions now.
The Indian tradition was once thought to be aimed only at farmers, but we are starting to value it now.
"The ads are in addition to peppers, tomatoes, beans, corn and chocolate, as well as Aztec and other pre-
Columbia culture-
Like pumpkin flowers, chrysanthemums, posole, Santa Claus leaves and truffles in hoja --
Like a corn fungus called green grass. -
More and more common.
The Four Seasons New Mexico City restaurant even serves fried jalgras, an ancient and mouth-watering delicacy in the Oaxaca area.
Advertising also has the effort to reduce the weight of the food, and the chef uses less fat, especially to reduce lard.
Although this sounds super
Modern, arm result
Through the distortion of diet experts, it is actually fromColombian past.
"None of our roots is believed to be lard and grease from Mexicans," Alicia Gironella de 'angeli said . " She also taught cooking for nearly 40 years.
The Spaniard brought the pig. "In 1993, Mrs.
Deangeli opened an amazing new restaurant in the suburbs of Mexico City, El Tajin.
Some of the highlights on the menu are: fish steamed in banana leaves with mushrooms and cactus paddles (nopales)
, Like petals arranged with a variety of sour orange pickled fish, tempting soup
Love Soup and tempting fruit desserts, including a dessert made of sour cactus fruit xoconoxtle. .
"This is the same as the food we provide at home . "De'Angeli said.
"This is one of the two major trends in Mexican cooking.
The other is popular Mexican food with grease and cheese and fried food.
What we are re-interpreting is traditional food.
"Basically, she said she was changing the way the presentation was done.
Take her way of making tortillas in El Tajin: the warm, flat tortillas are embedded in the leaves of the fragrant Mexican herb epazote, which makes them look more stylish.
In another restaurant called Los Girasoles, a basket is filled with blue and yellow tortillas.
New Flowers
There are 31 culinary experts in the Bedecked restaurant, most of whom are women.
The menu added points to each of them.
Better restaurants in Mexico City, such as El Tajin, La Galvia and Los Girasoles, now offer a wide variety of degustation menus, with the main dishes served under the silver dome.
Like their American counterparts, Mexican chefs encourage farmers to produce specialty products for them.
Monica Patino, who owns two fine restaurants in Mexico City, Taberna de Leon and La Galvia, attracts stylish Mexican and international crowds, has a farm in Valle de Bravo that is about 120 miles from Mexico City, she grows special lettuce and herbs there.
"I'm talking to other farmers and growing things for me with fewer pesticides," she said . ".
In addition, the culinary industry is changing as chefs begin to attract attention.
"In the past, being a chef was not a prestigious job, but now boys and girls from good families are interested in being a chef . "De'Angeli said.
She offers training and internships in the restaurant, adding that the new cooking school is being opened.
But for now, most of the influential chefs are women because they are the owners of the family.
A tradition of living cooking.
"The real Mexican cooking comes from women . "Quintana said.
"You don't see a man making tortillas with his hands.
"Many women come from the upper class and from families with chefs preparing traditional dishes.
"I don't know what to do with my life . "Patino said.
"Then I found the old book at the turn of the century, like a family diary with recipes, like alchemy.
I have learned to absorb other influences since I opened the restaurant, but the soul of my food is always Mexican.
"In order to finish the painting, there are now some fine Mexican wines such as La Cetta nebbiolo, Monte Xanic blanc and Chateau ecq Cabernet wines that can be tasted
Most of them come from wineries in Lower California in the Mexican region.
In the United States, some Mexican chefs who have restaurants in cities such as New York and Chicago praised the emerging trends in Mexico, especially from a health perspective, after negative publicity, typical Mexican food.
"Mexican food has no reason to get greasy," said Zarela Martinez, owner of Zarela's in Manhattan . ".
Advertising chefs like MS
Martinez has been complaining about burritosand-
The confusion between the Mexican burrito image of Mexican food and Tex
Authentic Mexican food in Mexico, USA.
"A few years ago, some Mexicans criticized me for explaining some traditional dishes in a more complex way, but now they are all doing it," she said.
The peso is likely to plummet, but refined Mexican cuisine is adding value. Ms.
Patino said: "We locked the Mexican food in the attic box with a lot of things in it.
It's time to open the trunk to rescue them.
Add a modern-style radish and avocado salad adapted from "water god's food" by Patricia Quintana (
Simon & Schuster, 1994)
Total time: 15 minutes 2 bundles of radish 1/2 cups of fresh lime juice 1 ripe avocado 1 small red onion, peeled and sliced thin salt, taste 1 1/2 tablespoons of chopped fresh coriander leaves. 1.
Decorate radish;
Then, roughly chop them up with hands or food processors.
If you have time, the salad will be more attractive if the radish is cut into julienne slices by hand.
Put the cut radish in a bowl with green lime juice. 2.
Peel the avocado and cut it into thin slices.
Gently stir with radish and green juice.
Fold in the onion, season, and pile up on the platter.
Sprinkle with coriander leaves.
Output: 4 copies.
Approximate nutritional analysis of each food: 95 calories, 8 grams of fat, 0 mg of cholesterol, 12 mg of sodium (before salting)
2 grams of protein, 6 grams of carbohydrates.
Light dishes with coriander Adapted from La Galvia and Taberna de Leon in Mexico City Total time: 45 minutes 1 bunch of fresh coriander, about 20 stems1 tbsp olive oil 1/4 cups of fine fresh serrano peppers 3, seeds and dry white wine juice cut into thin and smooth 1 cup 1 lime2 pound green mouth, 1/2 cup heavy cream. 1.
Keep 4 small branches of coriander for decoration.
Remove the leaves from the rest of the stems and discard the stems.
Wash the leaves and dry them on one side.
You should eat about 1/2 cups of loosely packed coriander leaves. 2.
Heat oil with weight 3quart saucepan.
Add scallions, garlic, and peppers and stir fry them in mid-fire for a few minutes until they soften but not brown.
Add wine and green lime juice, bring to a boil, then add green mouth. 3.
After about 8 minutes, cover and cook until the green mouth is opened.
Remove the green mouth from the pan with a slotted spoon and put it into the bowl.
Keep warm. Advertisement4.
Put the pan back on the stove, add coriander and cook for a few minutes until the coriander wither.
Put the contents of the cooker into the blender and the thick soup.
Pour in the pan, add the cream and put in the sim.
Simply put the green mouth back in the pan, cover it and re-heat it. 5.
To serve, put the green mouth in 4 soup dishes and add the sauce to each part. 6.
Decorate with preserved coriander. Yield: 4 first-Package.
General nutritional analysis of each food: 275 calories, 15 grams of fat, 90 mg of cholesterol, 270 mg of sodium, 14 grams of protein, 9 grams of carbohydrates.
Salmon Adobado is adapted from the "Dora restaurant, total time in Mexico City: month hour2 chili red chili dried corn month pasilla chilies1 Anjo chili2 cascabel chilies4 chili chilies3 tablespoons chopped garlic1/month Cup chopped chicken, the white part is only 1/3 cups of red wine vinegar 1/3 cups of water 1/2 teaspoon of dried oregano, preferably 1/2 teaspoon of dried thyme6 bay leaves in Mexico, 2 tablespoons of olive oil 4 slices of salmon and skin, about 7 functions per set 1 lime, rounded. 1.
Grill or large casting heating-iron skillet.
Place all the peppers on the grill or in a frying pan, heat them once or twice and bake.
Don't let them burn.
Remove the pepper, divide it into two halves, and remove the stem.
Take out and save the seeds. 2.
Put the chopped peppers back in the grill or frying pan and gently bake the inside.
Cut the pepper into small pieces. 3.
Place the pepper in a blender with seeds, garlic, scallions, vinegar, water, oregano, Baili and bay leaves, and process until fully blended. 4.
Heat the oil in the frying pan, add the pepper mixture and stir for about 5 minutes.
Remove from the heat and cool for 10 to 15 minutes.
Lightly seasoned with salt if needed. 5.
Place the salmon in a shallow bowl and cover it with a pepper mixture.
It is allowed to soak for 20 to 30 minutes at room temperature. 6.
Preheat the grill or grill.
Grilled or grilled salmon, first of all the skin side, close to the heat source until the outside becomes Brown, the fish is just cooked inside, 3 to 4 minutes each side. Advertisement7.
Wedge service with lime.
Output: 4 copies.
General nutritional analysis of each food: 295 calories, 14 grams of fat, 35 mg of cholesterol, 125 mg of sodium (before salting)
30 grams of protein, 13 grams of carbohydrates.
A version of this article appears on page C00001, the national edition of May 3, 1995, with the title: The Mexican chef accepts light ancient dishes.
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